Taling Chan is one of our most popular floating markets. Its popularity is partly down to its openings hours. Open throughout the day on weekends and public holidays, it’s not one of those floating markets where you need to wake up at the crack of dawn to experience it. Also, you don’t actually have to come here by boat; many just drive and park in the compound of the nearby temple instead.

The food, not the convenience, though is its biggest draw. For gluttonous me, walking along its narrow wooden deck lined on both sides with boats peddling hot and cold snacks is always a futile exercise in self-control. Will I be able to make it my favourite stall without succumbing to one of the many other temptations first?

Usually I don’t, of course, but it’s not the end of the world: I always make it to my beloved grilled fish with lime-chili sauce stall, eventually. To find it, look out for the lady in the boat wearing a classic Thai gardener’s hat, like something out of an old sepia postcard. And if you don’t see her, just follow the smell of fresh seafood gently smoking over red hot charcoals. Usually I choose whatever she says is best that day, be it a snake-head fish, silver perch or sea bass, giant prawns, or some mussels.

Brought from Supanburi province, just north of Bangkok, all of it’s super fresh. But the scenestealer here is not the soft tender flesh, but her nam jim (spicy dipping sauce). She makes it herself, mixing lime, chili, pinch of salt and sugar and garlic, and the result is stunning – citrusy, salty, sweet and spicy. Everything is served traditionally, on a banana leaf, and with boiled vegetables to cool your mouth down.

getting there
Catch a long tail boat from one of the piers along the Chao Praya River. Bargain hard on the price, and make sure you tell them you want to stop at the market. Allow at least 45 min., preferably more. If going by car, Taling Chan is west of the river, in Thonburi, at the intersection of Chimphli and Chak Phra roads.