Charm-steeped cucina Italiano where classic meets cosmopolitan
Let’s face it, most city noshers with international tastes have always taken Bangkok’s impressive community of Italian dining establishments for granted. Indeed, in many of the more upscale downtown districts one is never more than a stone’s throw from a world-class feast inspired by Europe’s boot-shaped treasure trove of culinary heritage.
Amid this well-populated dining category, Galleria Milano Restaurant presents discerning diners the opportunity to experience an alluringly uncommon facet of Italian cuisine. Located in the Mille Malle community mall on Sukhumvit Soi 20—in the shadow of the sky-scraping Millennium Towers—this cosy, Italianate-decorated eatery offers an intriguing selection of regional delicacies that treads both familiar comfort food paths and off-the-map territories.
Enthusiastically recommended as a starter, the salad of Puntarelle lettuce with Coppa ham (B380), features a cheekily concealed dollop of creamy Burrata lurking beneath, with the delicate leaves and premium imported cured pork mingling famously with the silky smooth heritage cheese.
Fans of the artichoke—that storied and scale-clad hand grenade of the produce world—please take note: this locally hard to find (or afford) vegetable pops up in a two-dish set (priced at B450), the first half of which is an Artichoke salad with black truffle, with one thin shard of dried tuna and one of dried Botaga roe contributing an unassuming seafood finish. By contrast, there’s nothing subtle about the accompanying Whole, deep-fried Sardinian artichoke which is plated up without pretence or fanfare. And because frying renders them edible, the crunchy, curled up outer leaves offer up a surprisingly tasty textural complement to the tender heart and cap within.
This is followed by Falkland Island sea bass (B700), the fillets arriving in a scrum of diced aubergine and tomato sauce, with the succulent fish’s subtle flavour owing to the deep, cold and clean Atlantic waters of its native habitat.
For those who think eggs are strictly brekkie-time nosh, the “yolk’s” on you, a pun made possible by the monstrously huge Ricotta and spinach-stuffed raviolo—that terminal “o” means there’s just one—with white truffle (B420). Upon plunging your steely tines deep into the heart of this cycloptic, oven-browned pasta beast-in-a-bowl, a brightly coloured torrent of egg yolk pours forth from within creating a visually dramatic and supremely delicious brunch-ambush of a dish that really should not be missed.
Rounding out the meal, the Australian lamb chops (B850) are gorgeously grilled with herbs and come with chopped kale and curry rice cake, along with pools of Marsala speckled with crushed roasted cacao beans, which lend the spice intensive sauce a crunchy, pleasantly earthy undertone.
Dessert comes in a pair of Vanilla cream-filled beignets (B220), the light puff-fritters filled to nearly bursting, while a drizzle of orange caramel sauce makes for a palate-dazzling finish.
By Chris Michael
Galleria Milano Restaurant
Mille Malle community mall, 66/4, Sukhumvit Soi 20
Tel: 02 663 4988 | Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 6pm-11pm | www.galleriamilanorestaurant.com