Bringing the flavours of the Mexican street to Bangkok
Any Bangkok resident who loves Mexican food knows Jorge Bernal. A born-and-bred Mexico City native, Bernal first opened Tacos & Salsa, on Sukhumvit Soi 18, eight years ago, and starting with his mother’s home recipes, the jovial self-taught Mexican chef introduced Bangkok to flavour profiles theretofore unseen.
Slanted Taco, his latest venture, sits comfortably in a simply decorated spot between Whisgar’s and Craft, on Sukhumvit Soi 23. With more investment and more marketing behind him, Bernal has finally found a platform to fulfill his mission of bringing the flavours of the Mexican street to Bangkok.
Bernal designed and built his own tortilla press, and using masa de maiz—a specialty dough made from nixtamal corn from Mexico—makes fresh, homemade corn tortillas for use with tacos and enchiladas. As far as we know, Slanted Taco is the only restaurant in Thailand serving fresh corn tortillas.
Bernal is also the only Mexican chef in town making his own chorizo, the spicy crumbly Mexican sausage that tastes great in tacos or in the Choriqueso (B250), a maddeningly moreish starter of chorizo and melted cheese, served warm with fresh flour tortillas.
What seems impossible for other Mexican joints in town—a good taco—comes easy to Bernal, especially the grilled beef version, a classic taco de carne asada in which the meat is chopped on the grill, just like in Mexico. Other available fillings include Mexican-style roast chicken, carnitas, tinga, chorizo, sea bass, prawn and sautéed mushrooms. The tacos run just B70-90, or you can order three for B200-260.
The Pozole (B180)—nixtmala corn soup, authentically served with red radish and oregano—was a winner as well. Huevos rancheros (B200) and Breakfast burritos (B200) are available all day, and the menu also boasts a few items from Mexican Americana, such as Fajitas (B580) and Wet burritos (B290). In addition, all salsas are fresh and handmade (none contain vinegar), and there is no bottled ‘hot sauce’ here.
The cozy bar to one side of the dining room boasts 22 tequilas—all of them 100 percent agave—as well as four artisanal mezcals. Margarita addicts should try the Devil Margarita Machurat (B380), served in a glass rubbed with honey, salt, chili, lime, and serrano chile. If you prefer tequila neat (B280), skip the lime and salt shaker business and ask for a chaser of sangrita—a shot of tomato juice, orange juice, lime, grenadine, and chili—available by special request. A short list of Mexican beers is also available.
To end the meal, we enjoyed Pastel de tres leches (B80) a rich traditional cake made with three different kinds of milk. For an extra kick, drop a shot of El Jimador on top, as we did.
Sukhumvit Soi 23 | Tel: 02 258 0546
Open: Mon-Fri, 4pm-1am | Sat-Sun, 2pm-1am