“High anxiety” for the chronic gastronome
It’s no easy task to repurpose a word that normally describes a psychological affliction into one synonymous with fine dining, worldly elegant ambience, and skyline-strafing city vistas, but the Banyan Tree Bangkok Hotel has managed to pull off the lexicon-altering feat with its toast-of-the-town Vertigo Too restaurant.
The way-cool 60th-floor venue exudes a terribly tony club vibe—with muted, dancefloor lighting and live jazz—made all the more spectacular with picture windows offering a drone’s view of the town over which it towers.
And those sweeping vistas are the perfect setting to savour a selection or two from the extensive list of cocktail creations, such as The Haole (B450)—a Bacardi Legacy Global Cocktail Competition 2016 Global Finalist creation that mixes Bacardi carta blanca rum, Bianco vermouth, pineapple syrup and ginger ale—or The Spring Field (B500), a smooth-sipping blend of Ketel One vodka, strawberry, cranberry, Monin rose and strawberry syrup (with a frothy egg-white capper which mercilessly en-moustaches those who exercise insufficient care in quaffing).
For diners, a menu of tantalizing international and modern Thai fare is presented on über-modern, leather-bound tablet screens, and includes favourites like the signature Thai fried squid legs (B450). While calamari is not an unusual dish, Vertigo Too invokes the soul of Thai cuisine by adding khao kua (roasted rice) to the breading—giving it a crunchy bite and nutty finish—along with a precision-nozzled squeeze-tube of Sriracha-mayo sauce on the side.
Another locally-inspired nibble, the Tom Yum roll (B510) is redolent of the world-famous Thai soup, while the dry ice misted ‘Seafood Lover’ sharing platter will sate the heartiest crustacean craving—brimming with Alaskan king crab, Hokkaido scallops, tiger and river prawns, Australian blue shell mussels and sashimi, along with traditional tangy-spicy Thai dipping sauces.
Some of the sky-high gastro-lounge’s newest menu additions include Grilled giant octopus (B550), which arrives with a swatch of deepest black octo-ink framing the tender pieces of sesame oil and soy-marinated cephalopod, as well as white wine garlic sauce, and orange and paprika aioli accompaniments.
Again the mini squeeze-tube pops up, this time decanting a spicy Thai herb sauce over the Salmon ceviche (B500), which features rolled slices of Norwegian salmon with fresh herbs. And finally, the block-cut Roasted French-imported duck breast (B550)—a Euro-cuisine classic—is seared just-so, with the requisite orange purée along with fresh orange, baby beetroot and pea shoot in port wine reduction.
Regardless their religious persuasion, diners ordering the Chocolate heaven (B280) for dessert will enjoy a glimpse of confection paradise as they put their tines to the fine imported-chocolate cake with decadently smooth ganache filling, cookie crumble and fresh berries, with a tart pomegranate foam providing a nuanced counterpoint to the dish’s suite of chocolaty sweetness.
By Chris Michael
Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant
60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd.
Tel: 02 679 1200 | www.banyantree.com