The historic On Lok Yun coffee house has been serving breakfast longer than I’ve been alive, and is older even than my mother! It’s a breakfast institution from yesteryear that is still in business today.
Miraculously, On Lok Yun retains the atmosphere and menu from those days of yore. The feeling of an old Chinese shophouse greets you at every turn—from the shop sign on the street side and the wood-framed window displays, to the round table and chair sets inside, and the wall of back-to-back train-bench style booths. This place is well-known for serving the Western-meets-Oriental-style of breakfast that used to draw people from all classes and occupations to share the same space together.
I normally go for breakfast in the afternoon, after a long sweaty shopping spree around the Little India area (loaded down with bags of fabric and goodies to carry home). The servers always greet everyone who walks into the cafe with cool Chinese tea to relax with before ordering anything. This small gesture is truly precious as it’s the way in the past that all people in Thailand treated their customers or guests.
As far as I know, their all-day breakfast menu has remained pretty much unchanged and definitively simple—fried eggs, sausages, bread, and coffee. But unlike so many modern imitators and guesthouses, each of these is carefully and deliciously prepared. They offer white pepper, salt, tomato ketchup and Maggie (dark, light soya sauce) for seasoning. My regular egg dish is a soft-boiled egg in a juice glass (really runny), and my joy is to mix in Maggie sauce and pepper and slurp it by the tea spoonful. My beloved bread dish is their toast dipped in egg or the Western version of French toast.
Their hot coffee is just simple, ready-to-make coffee, and nothing to get too excited about, but the other favourite drink I order that goes along so wonderfully with my afternoon breakfast is iced-coffee or iced-Milo (chocolate milk).
Honestly, I would be (almost!) equally happy to go to On Lok Yun just to sit and watch, because they serve up a nostalgic atmosphere as much as their many great tastes.
Address: On Lok Yun is on Charoen Krung Rd, between the Old Siam and Sala Chalermkrung. It is open every day from 6am to 4pm.