Chef Ton plants one foot firmly in the Sukhumvit suburbs
As the megacity of Bangkok expands in every conceivable direction, it’s not surprising that established, reputable downtown restaurants will follow in that wake, anxious to appease the tastebuds of bedroom community dwellers whose only gastro option appears—at first glance—to be the mega-KFC outlet at the local community mall.
And while just such a KFC anchors the JAS Urban Mall on Srinakarin Road (a short taxi ride from Bearing BTS station), there’s also finer fare to be had here at Backyard By Baan, which opened its doors just over two months ago. This ground floor restaurant is the suburban sister to Baan (on Wireless Rd), which is presided over by superstar chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn, of Le Du fame.
Like Baan, the menu here celebrates authentic Thai comfort food and local ingredients, albeit with a few contemporary twists. To come away with a good overview of what the restaurant offers start with Moo Dad Deaw (B180), the signature sun-dried, deep-fried pork strips that come served in a woven basket, complimented by spicy chili sauce. Follow that with Kai Pa Loew Tum Zap (B250), a delicious spiced soup served with two whole eggs, chunks of meaty pork, and a cavalcade of other powerful Thai flavours (coriander, lemongrass, and dried chilies to name a few). It’s a menu item you don’t see all that often, so don’t pass it up.
The Ka Pao Nua (B290) is another seldom seen menu offering. Here the dry-aged Thai beef (it’s usually pork or chicken in the mix) is stir-fried with liberal amounts of garlic and chili. Served with rice, it’s a delicious variation on an always satisfying favourite—and much less greasy than its porcine counterpart. However not all dishes here stick to a strict Thai script, as evidenced by the Pasta with Northern sausage (B190). It’s worth noting that on the menu it’s listed as fettucine, and served with anchovies, but customization according to customer preference is encouraged. We opted for penne, along with thick cut slices of bacon replacing the anchovy, but the delicious Northern sausage remained in the starring role.
The drink menu also offers plenty of options—wine, craft beer, etc.—but the Thai-centric cocktails here are worth seeking out. The refreshing Busaba (B200) combines gin, homemade ginger syrup, lime juice, lychee, and soda—with marvelous results—while the sweet and satisfying Khoo Gam (B200) makes use of Lamoon, a Thai white spirit made from sugarcane. Combined with lemongrass syrup, lime juice, and butterfly pea syrup, it makes for a pleasingly pretty, purple potable.
As for the décor, the vibe here is casual and relaxed, with strips of greenery livening up the exterior walls. There’s seating for 80 to 100 persons—both indoor and outdoor—however the very comfortable cushioned bench seats available at some of the outdoor tables definitely evoke a more substantial “backyard” feeling.
Backyard By Baan
GF, Jas Urban Mall, Sri Nakarin Soi 46/1
Tel: 02 386 7339 | Open daily: 11:30am-11pm