In three generations of the Kua family, their restaurant, Bamee Kua, has moved three times: from a space behind a cinema in Ratchawong, now long gone; to the Gaysorn neighbourhood; and finally to its current location, in Lang Suan.
But amid all these moves, one thing has happily remained constant: the heart and soul of the cooking. Its oldest and most faithful fans have followed them with each migration, drawn to the original recipes.
The Kuas are most famous for their hand-pulled noodles, which they make in the kitchen at the back of the restaurant, located in a Chinese shophouse where they also live. Their yellow egg noodles are outstanding; no other place can compare. The texture is soft yet al dente, and importantly there is no smell of flour or egg, the common handicap of inferior egg noodles.
Their “e-mee” dish is famous: fried egg noodles with special Chinese sauce, made only by Aunty Ploensri. She will customize the taste — one serving per wok at a time. She produces each dish with meticulous care and never rushes the preparation. The noodles are topped with shredded ham and boiled, shredded chicken meat. This may sound a bit like kids’ food, but trust me: It’s a dish for everyone!
The other key dish — also one of a kind — is “kouytiew moo sap kaeng kari,” or noodles with kari curry minced pork. This is wild and divine!
The dish can come with handmade egg noodles, flat rice noodles, or small rice noodles with kari curry minced pork. The aroma of the kari curry will travel to the nose well before the dish lands on the table. I like my dish with egg noodles and a raw egg yolk on top. I make these ingredients happy by mixing them together nicely in the bowl, which produces a creamy texture that softens the powerful taste of the kari curry.
I don’t fear the raw egg in this dish, and here’s why: I have eaten here so many times that I know from chatting with her that she cooks with considerable pride, governed by a philosophy to provide only the best. I trust the quality and freshness of her ingredients.
Her vinegar is 100-percent natural. It’s fermented nam tan sod, or palm juice, which comes from the same small family business that her grandfather used. She also uses her own salted cabbage, called tang chai, to impart a unique taste in her noodles.
When it comes to the soups, her broth is not as exciting as the pulled-noodle dishes; it’s relatively bland, though healthful. Seasoning is largely up to the customer’s individual tastes. But I understand this approach: She doesn’t want to overpower the fresh ingredients.
With every visit, I admire her more. The old is the new: be simple, delicious, and responsible, and maintain high quality.
Bamee Kua is located on Soi Lang Suan, near Luxx Hotel.
Opening hours: Monday-Saturday from 9 am-2 pm, though these hours can vary.The special dish “e-mee” is served on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.
Call ahead to be sure they’re open: 0 2251 6020.