Foolproof entry hack lets hungry barbarians through the gate
While it’s true that tenants at Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park enjoy luxurious exclusivity in facilities and services, the discerning downtown diner will be relieved to know it’s possible for outlanders to infiltrate the complex’s onsite restaurant Bistro M for some thoroughly satisfying casual-fine dining fare.
With a convenient street-front entrance, floor-to-ceiling showcase windows, and not a card-key or
fingerprint reader in sight, one might think the cheery, multi-cuisine eatery is “actually” open to the public (our intrepid and, as it turns out ravenous infiltrator has reported this to be very likely true). For all barbarians at the gate the main access port is easily breached by gently pulling on the decorative feature disguised as a door handle.
Upon gaining entry, the multimode layout appeals to whatever dining mood prevails—a section of chic, low-seat table-pods features a menu of tantalizing pub-style fare ideal for casual-quick chill-versation noshing, while an adjoining dining area offers conventional seating and take-your-time dining ambience.
Once the tucking-in phase of the mission is launched it becomes clear that any attempt to limit public access to dining delights served up at Bistro M would be a crime against humanity worthy the The Hague, to wit…
The spicy Linguine carbonara (B350) had a nice pasta-bite, with indulgently creamy ‘nara sauce, bacon, and a hint of dried-chili piquant, liberally roof-tiled with jumbo Parmesan flakes. Artichoke lovers who are all-too aware of the local “dearness” of this noble vegetable will appreciate the medley of sautéed carrots, mushrooms, and artichoke that manages to steal some, but not all, of the spotlight from the gorgeously tender Mediterranean grilled sea bass (B590).
And speaking of Best “Supporting” Produce, tucked beneath the thick-cut and beautifully grilled Australian beef tenderloin (B790) one discovers a playfully hidden pedestal of sautéed spinach topped with grilled veggies—a conscience-soothing counterpoint to the herb butter-dolloped steak.
The Chicken Maryland (B450) looks so comfy and content nestled into a mound of porcini mushroom risotto that one is tempted to dive right in and snuggle up to its golden brown-skinned perfection. However, it turns out that consuming this signature dish in the conventional way is infinitely more satisfying, affording a deeper appreciation of the delectably crispy skin and savoury, home-style flavour.
For a lighter, but no less substantial dine, Mediterranean tuna salad (B280) rocks up with two hefty, uniformly seared, pink-fresh sashimi slabs which play chaperone to a deli-tray soirée of Mediterranean cuisine classics. Far from scanty sprinkles, crumbles and slices, this salad bowl brims with jumbo whole olives, dice-sized feta cheese bites, and thick wedges of—there it is again—marinated artichoke.
NOTE: Though lacking coveted Sukhumvit Road frontage, Bistro M offers Tuk-Tuk shuttle service from the Emporium end of soi 24 (call for details).
Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park
90, Sukhumvit Soi 24
Open daily: 11am-2:30pm,
Tel. 02 302 5265 ext. 8070