In a town where rules are made to be broken, in cuisine as well as life, the cozy Bistro M eatery may have come up with the ultimate in East-West snacking. A popular, casual dining spot for ex-pats and locals alike, with wide windows fronting an expansive length of Sukhumvit 24, the restaurant also has the challenge of tempting the palates of in-house guests in the Marriott Executive Apartments above. And this desire to surprise, combined with a burst of Thai pride, has led to a special selection of newly-minted pizzas that would be as much of a shock to the taste buds of Naples as they seem certain to become a hit in this “Venice of the East.”
Priced at an affordable B333 a pop for an ample eight-slice pie, served on a butcher block platter, these precociously multicultural pizzas start with wonderfully crispy thin crusts. Nothing is the slightest bit soggy here, which is really what makes for the miracle. And diners are encouraged to split their requests in half-orders so that they can try more of the unique flavors on offer.
Start with the gai yang—hunks of grilled chicken dribbled with an Isaan dipping sauce and just the right hint of mozzarella cheese—before getting into more exotic combos. What about a crumble of very piquant pork laab in place of humdrum Italian sausage? In case that’s not enough of a journey away from the ordinary, another slice from the oven is laden with pork neck hunks in a thick chilli paste. Thais have long perfected their tart green curries stirred into spaghetti, so why not add surprising heat to bland cheese and dough? The tom yam pizza features shrimp, of course, and a dense saturation of sour tamarind. There’s no compromise on local taste here, which is what makes it all work.
The piece de resistance, however, is the first successful attempt at a pad Thai pizza. No, there are no noodles to double down on the starch—just shrimp, tofu, scrambled eggs, and scallions to simulate the lightness of everyone’s favourite noodle-y staple.
Wash it all down with beer or a thick smoothie. Better yet, Bistro M’s full menu—from duck breast to rack of lamb—is still available, just in case the pizzas aren’t enough. But they certainly make the perfect lunch. Where else could you pack a trip to Italy and the next sidewalk’s best street food flavours into every bite?
Marriott Executive Apartments, 90 Sukhumvit 24 | 0 2302 5265 | marriott.com | daily breakfast 5.30am-10.30am, lunch 11am-2pm, dinner 5pm-11pm