Metamorphosizing the Jim Thompson brand
As the world luxury Thai silk brand Jim Thompson reimagines itself as a more modern, hipper, and upmarket name, its new flagship eatery, Bombyx, epitomizes this artistic evolution beautifully. At home on the main floor of Siam Paragon, the bijoux dining space is designed in a black box art museum style complete with spotlights and artistic work; ideal for a space with a mall view.
The opening exhibition, by renowned Thai abstract artist Ithipol Thangchalok, features prints and printed silk drapes, creating an almost cocoon-like feel overhead, along with artsy table designs that change with each showcase. The year-long installation works beautifully, defining a theatrical style that is reflected so seamlessly in the menu.
Dishes are perfected by award-winning culinary creative Chef Phongsak ‘Gai’ Mikhunthong, who shows as much passion and artistic sensibility as a master designer; creating picture-perfect dishes that are destined to be instant Instagram hits.
Bombyx serves contemporary Thai dishes with a twist. This is not fusion, but a delicious combination of food and art presented at reasonable prices that are lunch-time friendly.
The Yam Tua Plu (B320) is created with scallops to create a pretty and delicately tasty wing bean and chicken salad served with a boiled egg, Kaffir lime and sweet and sour chili dressing. The Meing Tuna Kratong Thong (B350) is a crisp tartlet with tuna sashimi and a bite-size taste sensation that gives the menu a gourmet edge.
For mains, Koh Soi Soba Ped Yang (B280) is a delicious take on a North Thailand classic, using curried Japanese soba noodles instead of Thai, and served with a duck egg and grilled duck for an extra lux flavour. The Pla Gra Phong Yang Sauce Saowarod (B350) is a standout dish. The sea bass is grilled beautifully and the salad with passion fruit dressing is gorgeous, healthy and picturesquely divine.
The Sac En Chocolat (B320) dessert is a yoghurt-cream and berry delight but way too big. With tamarind taking centre stage in many dishes, the menu is perhaps a little too sweet in places. The cocktails add to this sweetness but are 5-star, rooftop-bar style quality. Creative concoctions include the heavenly Bombyx Elixir (B280) made with vodka, mulberry shrub, and lavender, and the lovely Rose Cobbler mocktail (B190) with watermelon, lime, and rose lemonade.
The dishes at Bombyx taste as if they are classics which should have been around forever, and this is a true sign of culinary artistry at work. The lights may beam down a little too strongly and the hexagonal tables more cool than comfortable, but as Bangkok dining metamorphizes, this is a lovable space keeping the Jim Thompson brand fashionably ahead of the curve. by Nadia Willan
MF, Siam Paragon Mall | 991/1 Rama 1 Rd.
Tel: 02 129 4840
Open daily: 10am-10pm