A casual gastrobar in trendy Ekkamai demonstrates a flair for Galician tapas
Broken Eggs isn’t in any way a place to get an omelette, not even a Spanish omelette, but a sausage-laden speciality of the same name. Broken Eggs doesn’t even call itself a restaurant—but a gastrobar where the exceptional array of small plates is meant mainly as alcoholic accompaniment. Yet thanks to Jacobo Astray, a native of Galicia (“world’s best seafood,” he touts) who trained under some of his country’s most advanced chefs, and moved to Bangkok six years ago, this light-filled watering hole, fronted by a wall of windows and featuring the world’s best wall mural portrayal of an octopus and an elephant (mingling together around pots and pans!), has dramatically expanded Thailand’s connection with the excitingly freewheeling experimentation that is Spanish cuisine today.
While his menu of tapas variants is continually evolving, with a sufficient number of light bites, mainstays include the satisfying Garlic Shrimps (B210), hot and crispy Iberico Ham Croquettes (B200), and Thai Burrata Cheese topped with Raspberries and Pistachio (B320). A spring roll of slow-cooked beef cheeks over creamy polenta (B320), Red Tuna Tataki & Guacamole topped with Mango & Ponzu (B320), and Pumpkin Puree and Mushrooms accompanying an egg cooked sous vide (B24). Oh, and the house signature, Huevos Rotos—eggs fried in plenty of olive oil and with Iberico ham, of course (B220). Get the idea?
This is no predictable paella and chorizo joint. Tried-and-true ingredients, many Asian or otherwise scrupulously sourced, are paired with radical techniques. And if you aren’t in the mood for one particular bite, there’s always another (for which you won’t have to wait long). Best, though, to order five plus at a time, so not to run out too quickly. Octopus is most often in evidence, too. I suggest the Grilled Octopus with Potato Puree & Paprika (B380). Desserts are also worth exploring, with the likes of Mint & Mango Cheesecake (B180), Passion Fruit with Coconut Foam (B180) and Macadamia Ice Cream & Chocolate Sauce (B180).
The same holds true for especially aromatic and digestive gin-and-tonics, adequately mixed sangria and other wine-based sips that stay loyal to Spanish roots. As one might expect, the selection of Iberian vintages goes way beyond the ordinary, too. You can savour this spot solely for its beverages, but to miss Astray’s culinary creations would be a shame. You’ll also find an impressive selection of Thai and Laotian craft beers as well as Galician, including Estrella.
The atmosphere is entirely casual, not at all stuffy for something so gourmet. With the fun just begun, Jacobo’s instincts and formula are in no way broken. He is on form, the perfect host during an evening of delicious Spanish gourmet fare. Where else but Ekkamai could you find a three-year veteran of the kitchens of the world, including famed elBulli, personally preparing the finest finger food for you? By John Krich / photos: Olmo Reverter
112/7 Ekkamai Rd (Sukhumvit Soi 63) 02 047 7811
Open: Tue-Sat 5pm-11.30pm, Sun 12-4pm