Take cover from ho-hum dining
The first thing you notice about Bunker restaurant is the appropriateness of its name. The bare concrete finish and beveled-slot front window does indeed suggest a WWII “pillbox” emplacement. Inside, the bare, sledgehammered concrete walls and rustic-rusted iron bracings of the “brutalized” school of interior design appear to have reached a somewhat strained agreement with the flawless teakwood flooring and a downstairs bar—which sparkles and glistens like a squad of Tinkerbells ambushed by fireflies.
Running the show is founder and Executive Chef Arnie Marcella, whose extensive experience in top New York kitchens is evident in the menu, execution and strikingly original style of his newly minted eatery. Highlights of Chef Arnie’s inspired and diverse culinary creations include a refreshing Endive and sunchoke salad (B350) drizzled with a tangy candied lemon dressing, with white anchovy providing a spike of saltiness. The ceviche-like Kanpachi Crudo (B375) features tender cubes of fish dressed in a coconut milk sauce, fresh coriander and Jicama turnip, while the Cured foie gras torchon (B550) with Mayong Chid (Marian plum), chili mango, and candied cashew is a delightful twist on the classic French-originated classic.
The impressively sized cephalopod appendage that features prominently in the Seared octopus (B600) plate is gorgeously coloured, firm to the bite, and right-off-the-boat fresh with a peanut chili sauce and coriander expanding the dish into multiple flavour dimensions, and the Whole roasted fluke (B850/1200) is tender/crispy, served with artichoke in a brown butter sauce.
But if beef is your thing, then the Smoked Wagyu short rib (B2300/2 persons) is a must-try. Tender does not begin to describe the succulence of the exquisitely marbled meat, which effortlessly spoons off the bone, with charred onions and dreamily-creamy potato puree completing the perfect harmony of flavors. The grilled half chicken (B825) sports a nicely browned and seasoned skin, and comes with Arrowhead spinach, chestnuts and black garlic. And in a nod to sustainability, much of the produce used in Bunker’s dishes are sourced from the restaurant’s rooftop grow.
For those who naively think they can skip dessert, Chef Arnie mercilessly slays any semblance of willpower with a military-grade afters assault, highlighted by Baumkuchen (B300), a vanilla layer cake with crème Anglaise and cocoa nib, and an ultra-rich Chocolate cashew torte (B300) with chocolate mascarpone creameux, caramel and cashew toffee.
Bunker is armed to the teeth with a humongous and expertly curated selection of wines, spirits and suds too extensive to fully list here, but well worth mentioning are a few examples of the impressive imported bottled craft beer offerings, like the coffee-infused Mikkeller Beer Geek Breakfast Stout (B450) from Copenhagen, the Hazelnut Brown Ale (B260/360) from Portland, Oregon, and the Omnipollo Hypnopompa Marshmallow Stout (B650) from Stockholm.
118/2 Soi Suksa (Sathorn Soi 12)
Tel: 02 234-7749, For reservation: 092 563-9991
Open daily: 6 pm- midnight