The timelessly tantalizing flavours of classic Thai cuisine
Amid Bangkok’s kaleidoscopic dining scene of fusion, pan-continental, and otherwise creatively merged cuisines, Celadon at the Sukhothai Bangkok hotel is an oasis of traditional Thai cooking at its very best. The stand-alone structure sits just off the hotel’s main entrance at the end of a long drive—the tranquil, leafy stretch providing a welcome buffer from the hotel’s ever-bustling main road frontage—and the authentic cultural ambience helps give the restaurant its award-winning appeal.
The interior décor presents a refined, understated contemporary motif, with touches of traditional Thai. The ceiling-high glass walls that frame a surrounding lily pond are lined with a metre-high row of stemmed fronds, which glow green with rays of the setting sun—swaying in unison like a legion of emerald sentries. The ambience is further enhanced by a duo of classical Thai dancers in full costume, whose stoic charm and graceful movements, accompanied by gentling lilting rhythms, enchantingly complete the overall dining experience (dance performances are at 7:30 and 8:30pm).
The richly curated menu of meticulously prepared Thai specialties includes Khong Waang (B550), a sumptuous appetizer sampler featuring twin servings of satay pork, crab spring roll, fried shrimp cake, pork dumpling, and fried chicken in pandan leaf. Likewise, the Thai classic starter Miang Kam (B380) is a delightful DIY platter of toasted coconut, dried shrimp, peanut, lime rind, and ginger, with fresh chaplu leaves for wrapping.
The kitchen’s signature Yam Som-O Gai Goong (B350) is a refreshing and intensely flavourful salad, combining seedless bites of the tangy Asian grapefruit (pomelo) with chicken and prawns seasoned with tamarind paste and bits of crispy fried shallot. This Thai cuisine heritage specialty item is offered locally only in upper-tier restaurants, and is rarely seen on menus of overseas Thai eateries. Meanwhile, the Larb Nuepoo (B550), a spicy crabmeat salad that comes sassily served in martini glass, sees chilled shellfish aggressively seasoned with thin-cut Kaffir lime leaf—the pungent (perhaps bordering on overwhelmingly so) presence of which is tempered by the addition of powdered roasted rice.
The Celadon chef also presents “recommended” menu items that change on a regular basis, the most recent being Goong Mangkorn Khao Kluk Taojiewsod—Maine lobster with soya bean paste fried rice—featuring plump chunks of premium imported crustacean tail and claw meat, served with fragrantly herbed fried rice and Thai-style seafood sauce (B1,800).
As a sweet coda to the preceding symphony of flavours, Tab Tim Krob (B350) features ruby-red water chestnut dumplings and diced Jackfruit in a rich-sweet coconut milk broth, while the Khaomao Thod (B350) arrives as a fried banana coated with a crust of young green rice, served with a dollop of creamy-rich house made coconut ice cream.
The restaurant also offers diners an extensive list of wines, cocktails, and premium spirits, as well as health and herbal drinks, imported teas, and inventive coffee creations.
The Sukhothai Bangkok
13/3 South Sathorn Rd.
Tel: 02 344 8888
Open daily: noon-3pm, 6:30pm-11pm