Farm to table feasting that’s unforgettable
These days restaurants in Bangkok seem to follow a common trajectory: open, survive one month on hype, become passé, fade into oblivion. However Cocotte Farm Roast & Winery has proven itself immune to this fate, and on a drizzly Tuesday night—when most restos will have more staff than clientele—this bustling bistro has people waiting for tables. So what are they doing right? Hard to say exactly, but if they could bottle it every other eatery in town would buy it. I’ve visited more than once since it opened this past May, and each time it’s been packed.
The interior is stylish and welcoming, but never overpowering. Polished chrome mingles easily with wooden tables and farmhouse knick-knack décor, making you feel like you’re in a proper restaurant as opposed to an overdressed movie set. The busy open kitchen at the back provides an animated background, and the seating options include smaller tables by the deli counter, a communal table by the bar, or seats on the terrace outside (weather permitting).
Genial head chef Jeriko Van Der Wolf presents diners with a wonderfully varied menu, and the high-quality ingredients—including meats from local producer Sloane’s—translate into superb dishes that skew primarily, but not exclusively, towards classic French recipes. We begin with the Croquettas with cured Serrano ham (B220), a quartet of golden brown croquettes garnished with a tangy curry aioli and filled with gooey Béchamel. These are followed closely by an order of Risotto and morels (B520), a new addition to the menu. Here Carnaroli rice is stewed in a morel reduction gravy, adding a satisfying, earthy quality to the overall taste further enhanced by fragrant parmesan cheese.
Before moving on to mains we sample the light and lovely Poireaux vinaigrette (B360), which pairs leek —cut like penne noodles—with spicy chorizo, roasted almonds, and marjoram hollandaise. A traditional recipe I’m told, but a new one on me. Next up we “pig-out” on the Crispy pig (B520), a generous serving of slow-roasted pork belly served with apple slices and a spiced honey-beer glaze. Crunchy, fatty, tender and succulent, this diet-defying dish is quite unforgettable—I can still conjure up the taste.
For mains we go down the red meat trail, choosing a 300g Black Angus ribeye (B1,160) and a 240g serving of Wagyu rump steak (B1,060). Both are perfectly cooked toorder—thanks to the kitchen’s special egg-shaped, wood-fired, Kamado Joe BBQ grill oven—however I think the rump ultimately rules. Sides are ordered separately, and the Truffled mashed potatoes (B190) are divine.
For non-beef mains the tender Half farmer chicken (B490) is also highly recommended.
As the restaurant’s full name suggests, a fine selection of wines is available, which perhaps best compliments the meals. Desserts are given ample spotlight as well, with the exquisite Pavlova (B320)—a melange of méringue, mascarpone Chantilly, and seasonal fruits—topping my personal favourite list.
Cocotte Farm Roast & Winery
GF, 39 Boulevard, Sukhumvit Soi 39
Tel: 092 664 6777
Open daily: 11am-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm
(Saturdays till 11pm)