Fine dining through nature
When you enter this urban restaurant you don’t notice that the ceiling tall trees in woodland décor are rooted in the earth. But this homage to nature offers a hint of the multisensory meal to come.
The first Cuisine De Garden restaurant opened in Chiang Mai in 2011, and the second is now open in Bangkok—as of July—with Chef Leelawat ‘Nan’ Mankongtiphan masterminding the kitchen menu. The restaurant offers a Full Course Dinner (B1,590), divided into “chapters”, wherein diners choose one item from each chapter. These items are also available à la carte (prices shown).
The complementary Artisan Brioche is served with citrus crème fraîche, and arrives on a giant green leaf bread “plate” that comes from the Chiang Mai kitchen garden. Next we were presented with Coast to Coast (B190), designed to be sampled from left to right—the shrimp, mussel, salmon and caviar, and blue crab—where the delicate tastes become increasingly flavoursome.
From Chapter 1 we choose Seacret (B320), with Hokkaido scallop and chayote compress, red kelp, lime air, and ponzu. And a conch shell is used to pour the seaweed liquour. As a team we also try Terrarium (B320), a sweet-and-sour duck with shallot chutney, and cress salad. Complete with a glass jar that infuses smoked applewood over leaves and flowers.
Nest (B350), from Chapter 2, is a bird’s nest with an egg laid on top and a bowl of ‘hay’ for the eggshell. I’m instructed to break the egg, and as this oozes out, I taste a balance of pulled chicken with onzen organic egg, crispy vermicelli, truffle sense with shiitake, and aromatic sticks of burdock root perched on the side. We also enjoy Eclipse (B350), a crescent moon cooked with barley risotto, and anchovy, topped with crispy sunchoke and veloute.
In Chapter 3, we feast on the Monet inspired Water Lilies (B580). A pretty plate of pan roasted halibut, pink petals, grilled pickled lotus stem, lotus seed, and green pennywort purée.
From Chapter 4 we sample the dairy dessert ménage Farm (B250), consisting of a soft and silky goat’s milk panna cotta with melting beads of snow, a dollop of macadamia flower-infused honey on the side, and jagged white foam. Rehydrated goat’s milk wafers on the top break apart with each bite. We also try Coral (B250), with a contrasting matcha mousse, black sesame sponge, orange compote, and yuzu sauce on the side.
The last Chapter, Stone (B100), sees hand-made roselle and tamarind dark chocolates, served on black onyx pebbles. When we bite the edible “stones”, the reward is a crispy shell and gooey sweet centre.
The wine list is a selection of new and old world, and the signature cocktails are as innovative as the food. We sip the sweet gin-based, Macadamia Cocktail (B290), and the delicate lychee, gin, beer foam, and kaffir lime leaf Ma-Krud Cocktail (B290). And to complete the meal, we sample the refreshing TWG Oolong Tea (B150).
By Sara Wilson
Cuisine De Garden
12/6, Ekkamai Soi 2
Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-11pm
Tel: 02 053 3059