Steakhouses are so ubiqituous and generally straightforward that it’s easy to forget how enjoyable they can be when done well. This particular steakhouse, located on Sukhumvit between sois 31 and 33, certainly delivers on the food. Frankly, the lowkey interior, decked out with big TVs and theme restaurant trimmings doesn’t quite do it justice; this decor belongs in a place where the food isn’t quite as good.
But if diners can look past that, there’s definitely a satisfying fix to be enjoyed here. And it’s not just piles of red meat on offer. Instead, start with a serve of parma ham and melon (B450), a combination of quality produce and lighter flavours. There’s a touch of finesse here that is again on show with the rocket salad (B310), served with shaved parmesan and a balsamic dressing.
For those willing to get their hands dirty, the roasted New Zealand mussels, bathed in a white wine cream, are hard to overlook, the natural seafood taste offset delicately by the richer sauce. This is good stuff, executed with some panache that – at the risk of labouring the point – would not be out of place in more upscale surroundings.
Less impressive is the penne with prawn capsicum sauce(B260), which doesn’t quite work hard enough to deliver the required oomph of a proper pasta sauce.
But the meat is the main event and it all comes together in impressive fashion. The BBQ pork ribs (B790) are perfect, served up in an imposing rack that comes apart easily for a rewarding feeding frenzy. That’s the ultimate appeal of ribs and it’s a box that’s compherensively ticked here.
For diners less keen on getting marinade on their faces – or maybe it’s just us – the T-bone steak (B765) offers a more demure option. The side of vegetables could use a little more jazzing up but the steak is well-cooked and nicely seasoned.
More exciting still is the sizzling plate of Wagyu beef (B450) served with grilled vegetables in a garlic and mushroom sauce. This is honest, meaty fare done
exceedingly well. It sounds like a simple formula but it’s not always implemented properly. Definitely worth checking out if you’re craving red meat.
575-579 Sukhumvit | 02-662-3838
dallassteakhousebangkok.com | 2pm-midnight