Deconstructed is something of a buzzword when it comes to anything a little bit unfinished-looking but still cool, so we can’t think of a better word to describe Disaya’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection, Twisted Hauteur.
Supersized safety pins hold together swathes of folded fabric and jumbo zips can be seen snaking up the length of asymmetric dresses. A theme of this collection is elements used in unexpected ways; giant frills that look punkish, crochet that looks fashion-forward, and cutaways that look demure. How does Disaya manage such a feat? It’s all in careful juxtaposing; fashion loves a contradiction, after all.
Take a punk-inspired safety pin, add a little bling, and attach it to a demure evening dress and you’ve got yourself a low-key evening dress with just enough attitude to give it an edge, but not so much you look like you should be sporting a Mohawk and sitting beside the Camden locks. Similarly, Disaya utilises acres of fringing, but never once do the outfits look like your granny’s cushions. Rather, they channel Burberry Prorsum’s AW15 collection—Twisted Hauteur may have been slightly influenced by it. Who knows?—which is heavy on fringing and screams “fabulous” rather than “upholstery.”
According to the designer, Disaya Sorakraikitikul, the collection is inspired by the French Renaissance, but not in the corset-wearing, ridiculously impractical dress kind of way, but rather the prints of ornate Toile de Jouy kind of way. As much as we’d love to dress like Marie Antoinette, it just doesn’t seem practical for Bangkok. Instead, the collection is made up of silhouettes inspired by the era, but given a modern update and patterns that conjure up same time period. The result is as feminine as you’d expect from Disaya, but perhaps a little more exciting than you might usually give them credit for.
Whether you can see yourself wearing it or not, there’s no doubt Disaya is making a bold and brave statement with its new collection, and it’s one you have to admire. We’re always keen to see Thai fashion take a step into the unknown, and a collection that mixes up a little medieval glam with punk elements and full-on fringing has got our vote when it comes to creativity.
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By Gaby Doman