The bottom end of soi 22 – the funny little dog-leg where it kinks back toward soi 24 – is not an obvious place for a Mexican cantina. The bold, brightly coloured facade of El Diablo’s is flanked by Thai thrift shops and mini-marts. Restaurateurs here cannot rely on foot traffic, on customers happening past and popping in. That’s why El Diablo’s has gone out of their way to make sure they have the kind of food that persuades people to make the trip.
Early on a Sunday afternoon, regulars begin to filter in, greeted by Seamus, El Diablo’s personable young owner, who has set up his own operation in Bangkok, a shoot-off from his dad’s place up in Chiang Mai. The customers inquire about changes to the menu, talking about what they enjoyed last time. It’s a sure sign of a well-run place.
Here, at El Diablo’s, the burritos are the stars of the show – quite simply, they’re enormous, ranging from B120 for the basic combination to B225 for the snazzier carne asada – or grilled beef. They make their own tortillas on the premises and while they are delightfully fresh, it’s the liberal servings of roasted salsa and pico de gallo that really deliver.
If the burritos are too much for you to tackle, there’s plenty of smaller fare worth sampling. The tacos (B70-90) are particularly impressive. Again, the salsa and the toppings are light, refreshing, with just enough spice to blow out the cobwebs, while the varieties – chicken, pork, beef and chorizo – all retain enough of their distinct tastes that the different
tacos never blur into a hotpotch of cheese and guacamole – although the guacamole here is also top-notch. It’s a winning combination – if you’ve struggled to find fresh, flavoursome Mexican food, these tacos are the way forward.
That’s not to undersell the quesadillas, of course (B150- 245), but it’s probably the tacos and the burritos which are the staples that keep those with cravings for Mexican food filtering back to El Diablo’s.
Of course, no Mexican feast would be complete without several margaritas (B150) to wash it all down and El Diablo’s again hits the mark when it comes to the mixed drinks. It’s a perfect spot for a night with a big group of friends – dive in with a pitcher of the margaritas (B1200) and go to town on this immensely satisfying food.
330 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-663-8646 Tues-Sun 11.30am-11pm