The new era of integrated Japanese heritage and French techniques
The new Chef de Cuisine, Chef Hans Zahner has launched his Takumi multi-course seasonal tasting menu which will change every three months to favour returning guests. From Tuesday to Saturday until 30 December, the 6-course (B4,000++) and 7-course (B4,500++) options are available as well as a special dish of the evening. The 7-course set realigns the items from the 6 courses and extends for a few dishes. Premium ingredients are imported from Japan and Europe such as the Oyster Blade Japanese Wagyu.
One of my most-liked parts about the dinner is the amuse bouche. Tiny bites unfold the spirit of the meal and light up appetite with a dose of sparkling kombucha.
Three kinds of warm house-made bread are served with classic unsalted and smoked herb with miso butter that has a similar texture to cheese. The charcoal Hokkaido milk brioche has a crusty surface and cotton soft centre.
The first cold course is called Kaviari Kristal Caviar. A half-cooked and half-chilled “special” oyster covered in gelled cucumber glaze comes with three separate squares of daikon radish topped with eggwhite and ponzu sauce. The oyster and the cucumber and shallot brunoise underneath should be cut into three parts to let outstanding flavours and scents of the ocean and garden mingle.
The next course, Foie Gras, also blends together earthy land and briny sea. Yuzu kosho, a Japanese condiment, has a sharp taste from the rind and juice of citrus fruit. The sweetness from persimmon balances out the tartness while the foie gras and rich uni introduce a new level of creaminess.
An ingredient on a plate is versatile and executed in many ways. But the next meatless course, Yasai easily allows a bundle of vegetables, taro and shiitake to speak for themselves.
Likewise, the fresh glass-like Norwegian Langoustine barely needs the dressing and garnishing from kuro ninniku or black garlic, parsley and enryngii mushroom.
Preceding the main course is one of the most perfectly cooked and firmly packed Sea Bass fillets I have had in Bangkok. It is enhanced by citrus, teriyaki sauce and pretty purple potatoes.
The anticipated Glazed Pigeon appears in jet black coating. Not only is it stinkless but also tender. Thick miso sauce, parsnip, and cabbage pickles make it more pleasant.
The dessert of Genmaicha mousse has a tropical confit surprise inside, paired with gentle sesame ice cream. Signature Okashi or Japanese influenced petit fours then conclude the meal effortlessly.
25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok
57 Wireless Rd.
Tel: 02 687 9000
Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-10:30pm