Elements is an imposing space, where heavy ship’s lanterns loom overhead from a high ceiling lined with the inevitable exposed piping. It’s perhaps a bit large to fit the ‘living room’ atmosphere described in the marketing bumph, despite the sofa style and armchair seating. The décor is predominantly black and brown, low lit, with full wall sculptures of black charcoal at each end of the room that – as well as providing an arty backdrop – apparently filter out cooking smells from the open kitchen.
To wind down grab a sake cocktail (maybe ‘sakura’, with plum wine, cranberry, and syrups of rose apple and sakura, B350++) as you choose from a list billed as ‘modern logical cuisine’, which they translate to me as the use of seasonal produce.
The menu is divided into à la carte, with main meat courses largely in the B900++-B1,500++ range, and four tasting menus, including a vegetarian option (B1,200++). We opted for the five-course Moments set (B2,400++), starting with excellent quality gravlax and lightly smoked tuna with wasabi vinaigrette and soy jelly. Other dishes included a mushroom infusion poured over sautéed mushrooms, hazelnuts and thyme flavoured croutons; and slow cooked wagyu done two ways, as 24-hour sous vide short rib, with truffle mash, celeriac and apple, and beef cheek hachée. All are plated on off-kilter tableware for a little visual flair.
Finish with “a modern interpretation” of tiramisu with mascarpone cream and amaretto ice cream served in a tuile. The coffee element arrives as a couple of tiny jelly squares. Champagne (B1,280++) and dessert wines feature among 19 choices by the glass (B280-B700++) on a list divided by grape rather than region.
Take a glass (or the whole meal) outside to the good-sized deck, which benefits from an unobstructed view towards northern Bangkok, at least until the new Central Embassy mall and the Noble Ploenchit condominiums are built. There’s also a very enticing infinity pool which – 25 floors up – looks to disappear right over the edge into space.
Fl25 The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 57 Wireless Rd | 02-687-9000 | BTS Ploenchit | Daily 6pm-10.30pm