Explore modern European dining and the stories behind each creation.
Soothing white tablecloths are set against a beige interior; and tasteful art adorn the walls and ceiling of Embassy Room at the Park Hyatt. A spacious open kitchen means diners can observe the chefs in their busy domain as courses leave the pass.
An amuse bouche of delicate egg espuma, firm green peas, asparagus and a sharp, earthy compté cheese, with generously grated black truffles is the perfect start. A touch of dark rounded chicken jus and spongy morels completed the dish. The contrast between the light espuma and condensed chicken juice summoned my appetite for the rest of the Tasting Menu (B2,450+B1,200 for wine pairing) by Executive Chef Franck Detrait and Chef de Cuisine Pierre Tavernier.
Octopus was the evening’s highlight, boasting an improvised Spanish taste with mild quince and capsicum sauce, topped off with quinoa, corn and coriander, drizzles of explosive chimichurri oil and a slice of lime. Paired with a glass of Daniel Dampt & Fils Chablis 2015, this heightened the quince notes in the dulce sauce. The preparation of the dish was respectful to the octopus and cleverly presented a range of textures; from tender to crispy to caramelised. All was lifted to new levels upon the advice of squeezing lime juice on one half and not the other in order to compare.
A course of Alaskan king crab laid on a bed of pomme purée, sided with oven roasted leek, salmon roe, and dill, was coupled with a glass of Edition Bee “Beetle” Riesling Trocken 2017. The sweetmeat was easily pulled apart with a light push of the fork, melting on the tongue with the silky, wholesome mashed potato. Tangy vinaigrette, although just a few drops, magnified the pale leeks alongside a fruity, slightly citrusy, glass of Riesling.
Seared duck foie gras with a perfect pinkcentre and evenly browned exterior competed with the aromatically smoked celeriac purée and fragrant poached pear, dense beetroot, awe-inspiring sangria reduction and buttered toast stick. The subtle Te Mata Estate Chardonnay 2015 elevated the course by expressing an aftertaste with acidic backbone.
For the main, a medium-rare Australian lamb chop with thyme and green harissa sauce, loaded with spices, tasted stronger than its nose and was accompanied by a bowl of polenta, an Italian classic splashed with the remaining lamb jus; paired with Cantina di Negrar Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015—a superb choice.
Finally, the anticipated 85% Valrhona chocolate ganache with fleur de sel, Chiang Mai coffee and intense cocoa sorbet. The bittersweetness and saltiness enhanced by a lush Port wine, Quinta Do Portal Porto Portal Pink. Overall, the chefs delivered a genius approach to define new European flavour profiles, blending fresh signature ingredients from different regions.
Park Hyatt Bangkok, 9F, 88 Witthayu Rd.
Open: Daily, 6am-10:30am, 12pm-2pm, 6pm-10pm
Tel: 02 012 1234