Innovative Italian fare encapsulates the sublime pleasure of fine dining
For those who love traditional Italian hospitality, yet also appreciate creative and innovative cuisine, Enoteca is a favourite spot. Tucked away on a secluded soi in a mostly residential area, this appealing little restaurant exudes tranquility and exclusivity and has built a loyal following with locals as well as tourists. Perhaps it’s the personalized attention lavished on each guest by owner Nicola Bonazza, or maybe it’s the quaint charm of the understated European décor. No matter how you approach it, it’s an engaging restaurant that encompasses everything you love about Italian food, but with a unique and innovative twist that always keeps you guessing while never failing to satisfy.
The restaurant is situated in a restored historic home—a venue that is warm and inviting without being pretentious. Small and intimate, the interior design includes wine barrels, exposed brick walls, wicker furniture, wood floors, and a traditional Italian colour palate throughout. Wine bottles line the walls, and the main dining room is anchored by the charcuterie bar where cured meat and aged chesses sit on display.
Guests can choose from an à la carte or “Specials” menu, or opt for one of several seasonal degustation menus that feature ambitious and modern interpretations of classic Italian fare. In addition, Enoteca boasts a rarefied wine cellar which features more than 1,400 top shelf wines, including some varietals that are unique to this restaurant.
Chef Stefano Borra from Turin, in Piedmont, is currently heading up the kitchen and recommended the 5-course menu, priced at B1,990++ per person (food only). We began with several tasty amuse-bouche items, including their sublime Frozen Parmesan with Fresh Black Truffle. This was followed by the rich and decadent Jerusalem Artichoke (served three ways) with Cardoons and Black Truffles. It is a stunningly simple dish with a complex depth of flavour that elevates the humble ingredients to dizzying heights. For wine, go strictly Italian! Both the 2010 Abbazia Kerner and the 2015 Broglia Gavi di Gavi DOCG, are nice options that go well with the set menu.
Another highlight is the ‘Lasagna 2017’ which is a deconstructed version of the classic favourite. Playing with the contrast between texture, temperature, and taste, it delivers truly authentic flavours in a masterful and thoughtful way. We also highly recommend the delightfully earthy Venison with Popcorn, White Bean Cream, and Caramelized Fig. For dessert try the avant-garde Chocolate Cigar, along with a nice Moscato Grappa digestif.
Dining at Enoteca is the antithesis of a “quick fix” meal, and will appeal to anyone who appreciates the sublime pleasure of fine dining. They create some of the most compelling Italian cuisine in Bangkok, and it is consistently delivered at the highest level. There is always something unique to discover, and the exceptional service and casual ambiance make dining at Enoteca truly unforgettable.
By Melissa Richter
39 Sukhumvit Soi 27
Open daily: 5pm-midnight
Tel: 02 258 4386