It seems that not a week goes by without another restaurant opening up in one of Bangkok’s gleaming hotels – for the uninitiated, it takes a little while to get used to the idea of dining regularly in a hotel. Still, places like Eve make it a whole lot easier, from the luxurious foyer to the high-ceiling dining rooms and open-air decking. It’s heavy on style and the food is no different.
The concept is contemporary European food served with Asian presentation – it’s not intuitively obvious what that means until the food starts to arrive, laid out on rectangular plates, minimally but artfully garnished.
Still, the proof has to be in the pudding – or, at Eve, in the amazing French foie gras (B650) served with dehydrated raspberry and Xeres jus. It adds a refreshingly tart tang to the foie gras, lightening it in a way that really works.
The jumbo Hokkaido scallops (B650) come with green and white aspargus, dusted with olive oil powder (pictured). The scallops themselves are top-notch but the decision to serve them wrapped in prosciutto doesn’t quite do them justice. Still, it’s a minor quibble, compensated for by the range of varied, exciting salads. That’s right – salads can be exciting.
Sometimes, in modern ‘concept’ restaurants, the ideas work well enough in micro – small portions where there aren’t as many pieces to fit together – but start to wobble when it comes to the mains. The serving size and the expectations go up – the equation becomes more complicated, demanding greater ambition and greater skill in fusing the ideas behind the food with what works on the plate.
But Eve delivers with bells on. The chargrilled stockyard Wagyu beef striploin (B1950) is exceptional, one of the best steaks in Bangkok, served with potato mousselin, morel cream, baby root vegetables and pinot noir jus. A steak on a plate might seem fairly straightforward but Eve’s offering makes it tough to go back to more standard fare elsewhere.
The seafood mains are also spot on. The Pacific Ocean snowfish (B1100) comes with green pea puree, wild rocket and pomodoro sauces, a combination that heightens the seafood taste rather than working against it. The Tasmanian salmon (1050), with escalivada and red wine reduction is just as successful, ensuring Eve finishes with a satisfying bang that should attract plenty of returning customers.
Hansar Hotel, Mahadlekluang 2, Ratchadamri Road 02-209-1234 | hansarbangkok.com/eve | 6.30pm-11pm