Determined to fashion his own style of New Asian cuisine, 29-year-old Istanbul native Fatih Tutak sets his artisanal menu alight with burning culinary ambition. Having travelled for work across Asia and beyond, the exuberant chef’s résumé includes stints at Michelin-decorated restaurants The Bellbrook in Hong Kong, NOMA in Copenhagen, and Nihon ryori Ryugin in Tokyo. Now in Bangkok, at The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn, he plans to make yet another mark.
Donning his apron, Chef Fatih holds court behind the open kitchen counter, a breath away from where diner seat. “The Dining Room is a place where people can feel relaxed and enjoy themselves,” he explains. “We are not about being sniffy, but [rather] about an eating-out experience with friendly, outgoing, and interactive service. ”
As he begins to prepare a sumptuous sashimi appetizer, serving some homemade squid ink cracker sin the meanwhile, Chef Fatih says, “The Dining Room is about the stories behind the menu. Each dish is inspired by my travels, so the menu respects tradition, but I have added my own personal touches.”
The aptly named Early Morning at Tsuskiji Market recalls trips to the pre-dawn auction in Tokyo, where Chef Fatih would sample tuna sashimi at its freshest. Taking 100 grams of bluefin from the very same market, he deftly marinates the fish in soy sauce mixed with a reduction of mirin and sake. Using a shark-fin board, he grates fresh wasabi, placing a neat, teaspoon-sized square on the plate. Its presence gives the dish subtle heat, a pleasant taste unlike the pungent kick of store-bought powders and pastes.
Next, a freestyle brushstroke of puréed Peruvian avocado paints the side of the plate. A dash of olive oil and citrus is added to the avocado mix — the stone is left in it, too — to keep the ingredients fresh and the texture smooth and velvety. A napkin acts as a stencil as Chef Fatih decorates one side of the plate with roasted seaweed powder. He’s creating a work of culinary art.
After giving the tuna a few minutes in the marinade, Chef Fatih cuts the fish into stacked segments with the focus and dexterity of a sashimi master. He then gently places the long, pink stacks in the centre of the plate. Taking a small pair of tweezers tucked in the front pocket of his apron, he adorns the tuna with shisho flowers. Finally, he squeezes Japanese sudachi lime over it all. This final element gives it a foreign, almost herb-like taste. The flavours harmonize with the velvet-soft texture of the fish.
Not content to create only one dish, Chef Fatih quickly rustles up the decadent Red Parfait — a foie gras terrine roll encased in a layer of beetroot jelly and decorated with Thai nasturtium leaves — and serves it with homemade brioche and 10-year-old balsamic vinegar. Its flavours are redolent of the chef’s globetrotting experience.
At last taking a rest behind the counter, Chef Fatih reveals the meaning these dishes carry, saying “Food is a culture, an equal culture… and culture is one of the most important things for humans in their life.”
The Dining Room at The House On Sathorn
106 North Sathorn Rd | 0 2344 4000 | thehouseonsathorn.com