Adventurous, perfectly executed dishes showcase ‘Modern Australian Cuisine’
There are some places that are so daring, that you really have to marvel at the level of creativity one would have to have to even envision it all in the first place. Nestled at the top end of Sukhumvit Soi 47, Freebird is just such a venue, and in the ever-growing homogenous world of fine dining they offer a menu that showcases ‘Modern Australian Cuisine’.
The interiors and styling alone deserve an article all to themselves. Signature eye-catching pieces abound—rustic wooden exposures, and murals the likes of which belong in a gallery. It’s got a look and feel like no other. And in a city starved of greenery and any semblance of true alfresco garden-culture, the sheer lushness of the rear garden is worth getting overexcited about.
Expecting the usual saccharin-fuelled mocktails, the aptly named Strawberry Finch (B220) was a fantastic and surprising palette opener to the night. Sweet, herby, sharp but light, what began as a conservative effort to restrain myself swiftly became a hunger to sample as much as possible of their drinks menu—so much so, that I began to covet my guest’s aromatically spiced—and more potent—Logan Rye (B340).
Unsure of what “modern Australian cuisine” actually entails, it was only fitting to try their lauded ‘A Taste of Freebird’ (B1,750). Comprised of about 10 dishes, this tasting menu serves not only as a delicious introduction, but also a chance for executive Chef Top Russel to flex his culinary might.
As the unsung hero of any starter, dips are rarely given the proper nod that they deserve. After sampling both the devilishly fluffy crispness of the charcoal crackers with Piquillo peppers, and the smoked romanesco, hummus, and mentiko sour cream with toasted ciabatta, I had abandoned the ability to properly use cutlery. Fingers were in. Stunned by the fresh saltiness of the oysters served in a tangy but risqué ponzu and yuzu kosho, and the baby beets with smoked ricotta foam—a merry-go-round of textures and flavours—I began to understand why this restaurant was so popular.
Then, out came the sashimi of scallops with granite wasabi. On paper, it’s hard to imagine how any of the ingredients would have worked together, but swirling in my mouth it was hard to imagine why they haven’t always gone together. And these were only the starters.
You don’t have to be a mycophile to adore the hen’s egg, local mushrooms, and Australian brie. The duck breast, my favourite of the night, was flavour incarnate. Crispy and pink, but bursting with umami, with a perfectly executed plum sauce. The salted hake, lime, and miso butter with cauliflower was simply just showing off, but the perfection that was the Blackmore Wagyu tartare came at some point but I was beyond saving—having already fallen deep into a food fueled intoxication.
Desserts were just as unforgiving with the Japanese garden inspired green tea mousse, and chocolate ganache with mochi delivering the final blow.
By Zipporah Gene
Freebird Restaurant Bangkok
28, Sukhumvit Soi 47
Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight
Weekend brunch: 11am-3pm
Tel: 02 662 4936