Hamilton’s expansive windows overlook the Dusit Thani’s swimming pool and while the unruly mass of jungle ferns offer some pleasant greenery, they do little to present natural light flooding into the interior. It’s an undeniably pleasant spot to sit down for a few glasses of wine over lunch: clean lines and comfort, straightforward without feeling routine, low-key without feeling empty.
Of course, the interior counts for little if the food doesn’t stack up but Hamilton’s passes with flying colours on that score. For a steak house, Hamilton’s puts together a surprisingly interesting seafood selection – you can go all out with a combined platter of lobster, oysters, crab legs and prawns (B220 for four; B3300 for six). Or, if your appetite is a little more modest, try the crab cakes (main, middle left) served with spicy dressing and pickled vegetables (B550) or the red snapper tiradito (B415) rinsed with chilli, lime, sea salt, coriander and cucumber. Tiradito, by the way, is a kind of Peruvian carpaccio that also reflects the Japanese influence.
So it’s already pretty clear that Hamilton’s isn’t satisfied being the kind of steak house that just piles your plate up with red meat and the selection of wines reinforces that. The emphasis appears to be on the new world – malbecs from Argentina and chardonnays from California’s Redwood Vineyards. The expert pairing of wine with food ensures diners are likely to be won over early on, making the rest of the meal a celebration of a basic concept executed with panache.
The butternut squash soup with charred Hokkaido scallops (B440) is a more surprising combination, especially when served with Spanish sausage, corn and avocado. There’s
a lot going on but the scallops retain their pop among it all.
And finally, the steaks: there’s American prime beef, Australian T-bones and Black Angus, as well as French Charolais and two kinds of Wagyu (B1285-B3505). The presentation is uncomplicated – although there is a selection of flavoured butters for those who like to mix it up. But the cuts and the technique are refined enough that these steaks are perhaps best enjoyed on their own. Indeed, Hamilton’s, despite doing many other things very well, still delivers with complete assurance on its signature.
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Hamilton’s Steak House
Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd | 02-200-9000
dusit.com | 6.30pm-10.30pm, Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm