The mark of a good restaurant is its ability to deliver consistently over time and in every respect Indus, the Indian fine dining restaurant on Sukhimvit 26, does this with aplomb. Which is why it is a firm favourite among Bangkok’s Indian and ex-pat communities, and with ever-increasing numbers of Thai patrons.
That the restaurant has retained 90 per cent of its original staff since it opened over a decade ago speaks volumes – this and the fact that it imports its spices whole from India and grinds them on-site is what engenders the all-important consistency. The cuisine here is also remarkable in that it maintains the authentic flavours of northern India’s Mughal cooking without the use of traditional (artery-clogging) ghee – heathier substitutes such as sesame oil being preferred.
The interiors at Indus are inviting, beautifully appointed in dark woods and regal red soft furnishings. During the cool season the covered outdoor dining area and bar, which opens onto a verdant garden, is a popular spot for the highly regarded Sunday Brunch.
While much of the menu remains unchanged, a few new dishes have been added in recent weeks. These include Chicken Tikka Chaat (B200), a tangy combination of diced and spiced chicken tossed with onion, tomato and pepper. It goes well with the smokey flavours of the delightful Tandoori Creamy Broccoli (B280), fresh broccoli florets that have been marinated in a creamy spice mix and barbecued over charcoal in the restaurant’s clay oven. Also recommended is the succulent Gelafi Seekh Kebab (B390), a mixture of spiced mutton mince (or chicken if you prefer) wrapped in finely chopped chilli. Full of meaty goodness and best eaten with a squeeze of fresh lemon, it has a lovely piquant finish.
Two of the stars of the show at Indus are the signature Indus Kebab-E-Malai (B360), tender flame-grilled pieces of chicken marinated in yoghurt, cream cheese and herbs; and the hearty Nawabi Raan (B990 regular portion, B1590 large portion; serving 4-6 people). It comprises a whole leg of lamb marinated overnight in Captain Morgan dark rum, yoghurt and a well-guarded secret combination of spices. Slow-cooked for hours over charcoal, it is prepared by one of the newest additions to the Indus staff, a specialist Tandoori chef recruited from renowned Bukhara restaurant in Delhi. Ridiculously tender and infused with a smokey sweet and sour flavours, it has fast become one of the bestselling items on the menu.
If you have room, finish off with the hand-churned Pistachio Kulfi (B120) Indian ice cream. It is a sweet way to round out a memorable meal.
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71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, Sukhumvit Rd | 0 2258 4900
indusbangkok.com | 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm