Taking Spanish cuisine by the horns (no bull!)
With revered culinary tradition, a dash of molecular magic, and a potent soupçon of Michelin-star essence, Islero Bangkok entices discerning diners with its innovative take on fine Spanish cuisine. Located on Wireless Road, the newly opened restaurant’s highly original approach to Spanish cooking evokes the defiance of its bovine namesake—a fighting bull which famously slew the country’s most renowned matador nearly eight decades past.
Today, that rebellious spirit comes alive in Islero’s intriguing menu, jointly created by Chef Pedro Luis Rodriguez Serrano and the renowned Chef Eduard Bosch of the three Michelin-starred El Bulli in Girona. Now Islero’s top-toque, Chef Pedro brings his gastronomic alchemy to the table with original house specialties that defy conventional food-physics with intense flavours and startlingly unexpected textural events.
Starters include the “Can Set,” (B800) a trio of rather ordinary tins brimming with seasoned razor clams, mussels, and marinated prawns, respectively, crowned with wispy peaks of light-as-a-cloud soy-essence foam, slivers of chive, and roasted garlic. Chef Pedro demonstrates ample creative deconstruction skills with his Spherical Olive, which features a deceptively ordinary-looking green olive which “explodes” in a gush of savoury puree when bitten, eliciting a what just happened? reaction from a few pleasantly startled diners.
The crispy-chewy crystal bread squares topped with folds of premium quality jamon ibérico (B220) is a must-try, while the cheese cream features a bed of smooth-blended Manchego and Idiazabal cheeses boxed in by four walls of impossibly thin bread slices. The rostit Catalan cannelloni is a supremely smooth-textured double-meat delight of slow-cooked beef and pork ensconced in a fine-gauge crepe with a truffled Spanish cheese sauce demi-glace, and the grilled octopus in Castilian broad bean stew beckons the spoon with its captivating aroma and rich broth. Mains include an ocean-fresh baked red snapper with grilled potato and red onion (B680), and Australian lamb rack (B1600) sided by grilled tomato and peppers with vanilla. Other sumptuous viands emerging from Islero’s high-tech Jospur oven include prime rib, tomahawk steak, and 16 hour-roasted suckling pig.
For dessert, tocinillo de cielo (B230) features cream-topped egg yolk custard cubes garnished with blueberry and cherry drops of the afore-described explodes-in-your-mouth variety, and the torrijas with ice cream (B240) is a milk-marinated bread loaf, pan-crisped and caramelised with cinnamon.
Islero also boasts an impressive list of sommelier-curated wines that pair perfectly with the restaurant’s sophisticated fare.
The beautifully done interior is of a contemporary-rustic design, thematically built around a central partition/installation of variously-toned wooden squares mounted on darkened metal trellises. And for a more casual dining experience, the restaurant’s CAVA section serves tapas with group-friendly long table seating.
63 Athenee Tower, Wireless Rd | 0 2168 8100 | FB: Islero Bangkok | daily 5pm-midnight