Bangkok isn’t short of Italian restaurants offering Neapolitan, Tuscan and Romano cuisines. One of the few outlets proudly flying the flag for Venetian fare is Jojo at St. Regis Bangkok.
Located on the ground floor of the chic hotel, Jojo’s décor features period images of the palazzos and canals that have earned Venice its fame, while ambient lighting cast a warm glow over tables and an intimate bar.
Chef Carlo Valenziano uses ingredients imported from his home region to conjure up truly authentic flavours of the Veneto. Start with his Insalata di Granchio (B750), a Venetian-style crab salad made with celery, tomato, parsley gel, and salmon roe. It works well alongside Crema di Zucca (B350), a pumpkin soup with roasted seeds and a splash of the restaurant’s chilli-infused picante olive oil.
In terms of main course, those with a big appetite will enjoy Chef Carlo’s beef cut (B1690). It comprises four generously thick medallions of beautifully pink and tender wagyu top sirloin served with parsnip puree, marinated carrots, and red wine sauce. Try it with a side dish of Gnocchi con Ragout D’anatra (B550), handmade potato gnocchi served with an accompanying rich duck ragout, vegetables, and wonderfully tangy sage parmesan cheese crisps. The two dishes together make for an elevated version of meat and potatoes.
Also hearty is Anatra Porchettata (B980), pan-fried pink duck breast with a porchetta-style marinade, chickpeas two ways, orange compote, and duck jus. It is deeply satisfying and an example of Veneto comfort food.
A good alternative to these filling meat dishes is Cappasanta & Patate (B1150), a serving of plump Hokkaido scallops accompanied by a light potatohorseradish mousse, sautéed butterhead lettuce and roasted pistachios. The dish has a fine counter-play going between the natural sweetness of the seared scallops and the peppery kick of the horseradish mousse.
Another of the chef’s recommendations which throws up flavour contrasts on the palate is Casseruola di Funghi (B670), an intriguing wild mushroom casserole with black truffle, leek, slow cooked egg, stracchino cheese, and rye bread croutons. It is rich and creamy with a tart edge thanks to the egg and cheese respectively, and yet has an earthy quality resulting from the truffle and leek components, and textural crunch derived from the croutons.
These and many other choice dishes by the talented Chef Carlo can be enjoyed with a wide selection of Italian wines from a magnificent cellar.
The St Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd | 0 2207 7777
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