Located on the 14th floor of the Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn, Italian restaurant Luce runs alongside the hotel’s infinity pool, set against panoramic views of Sathorn. It’s quite a setting for an authentic, but innovative, Tuscan feast.
New chef Edoardo Bonavolta, who worked previously at La Bottega di Luca and Bed Supperclub, has created a menu that fuses traditional Italian fare with some rewarding flourishes and departures from the familiar.
There is a loose division between seafood – a quintessentially Tuscan emphasis – and fare ‘from the earth’, which pretty much covers everything else but narrows the focus on to high-quality produce. For example, among the starters, the burrata cheese with colonnata and oysters (B790) is an indulgent beginning, heightened by the use of squid ink to flavour the bread crumbs.
Alternatively, there’s the Black Angus beef carpaccio (B460) that incorporates salted ricotta cheese and baby fruits preserved in Italian mustard, balsamic caviar and pistachio crumbs. Already, it’s clear that this is not your stock-standard Italian restaurant.
This determination to raise the bar is present again in the soups – an area of the menu where adherence to familiar combinations is perhaps expected. Instead, there’s a mushroom acquacotta (B330) with porcini mushrooms, parmesan, egg and fresh tomatoes. The seasoning is uncomplicated enough that the natural flavours of the mushrooms are never overwhelmed but there is also an added richness.
For the avid meat-eater, there may be a hard decision to be made between the premium korabuta pork cheek (B890) and the slow-cooked lamb shank (B690). Or the Fiorentina-style ribeye steak (B2500 for 600g).
There’s also a selection of classic pastas, which probably hew more traditional than the rest of the menu. Still, the paccheri Wagyu ragu (B440) is several notches above your average Bolognese. Again, it’s slow-cooked and the beef comes apart effortlessly, with a sauce that is a delicious blend of cheesey and peppery.
Overall, if you’re after a refined Italian meal with a difference, Luce has plenty to offer.
14F Eastin Grand Hotel, 33/1 South Sathorn Rd | 02-210-8100
facebook.com/LuceRestaurantBangkok | 11.30am-midnight