Picture perfect precision
Once you get over the guilt of putting a fork into the translucent egg shell of sugar holding two pomegranate seeds, or running your chop sticks across a set of Chinese pictographs and swimming fish hand-drawn around the edge of your plate, or testing whether those gorgeous garlands of purple flower petals are alright to eat, the highest quality of ingredients awaits. Set on the second floor of the hyper-trendy MahaNakorn Cube, and actually topping the high-end elegance at fellow tenants Dean & DeLuca and Joel Robuchon, M Krub (the name doesn’t stand for club, or grub, or sweet mee krob, but the polite Thai epithet added to “thank you” and more) is set in one surprisingly intimate yet brightly-lit corner of the building. Its hushed surroundings fairly burst with elegance and can hardly contain the phalanx of servers, tea-pourers, and even a designated dish “explainer” all at your command.
M Krub has been billed by others as something of a “fusion” restaurant, but in truth, except for a dollop of salmon eggs or a black cod crust with a hint of pistachio, all of the tasting menus on offer—ranging in price from an already satisfying B4000 selection to the ultimate B12000 splurge—are resolutely loyal to the ultimate in pure Cantonese cuisine. So what if the tied sacks of Chinese dumplings are actually made of egg white and called “aumonieres”? Or if the traditional crispy chicken starter isn’t a full bird but merely one perfect slice on an exceptionally good tofu toast? The real heart of the Chinese matter here is seafood presented with a modicum of spicing—and why spoil things when you’ve got huge slabs of fish maw this excellent, drowned in an abalone sauce cooked for seven days? Even the between-course refreshers of chicken broth and lychee sherbet are memorable.
There are four signature cocktails named after legendary Chinese beauties, but the fine teas go down even better. And unlike many Chinese establishments, M Krub doesn’t shy away from desserts but embraces them: the congealed topping on an array of lime cakes may look like the usual red bean, but it’s actually a chocolate ganache as rich as any French place can do. And for those needing a little kick, M Krub presents a playful toothpaste tube of hot mustard.
But please don’t stop by M Krub expecting a casual bowl of noodles. They’re all in here, and you should be too.
Fl 2, MahaNakorn Cube, 96 Naradhiwas Rd | 0 2019 8105 | facebook.com/MkrubMahanakhon | daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm