A Tiki Torch for Polynesian Cuisine
It’s no easy business exalting the hot dog. Available on the street and in mini-marts, boiled, steamed, and grilled to lukewarm, covered in ketchup and mayo, stuck pig on a skewer, the humble meat gets little love. And yet, maybe it deserves more attention, more of our respect. It certainly does when it’s prepared like it is at Mad Moa, the one-room, Polynesian-themed
restaurant in Lan Luang.
“I wanted to share island food with Bangkok,” says Wham, the young and gregarious part-owner who spent three years studying in New Zealand. From ribs cooked low and slow and dished up with pineapple salsa verde (B320) to the aforementioned succulent sausage served on a robust blanket of chipotle mayo and melted cheddar (B220), the food he talks about revolves around the hearty fare of the South Seas and Americas. “For a lot of foreigners, this is comfort food, but locals don’t really know about it.”
Named for the extinct flightless bird once native to New Zealand, Mad Moa’s island theme emerges in floral-clad insignia, tapestries with faded red chevrons, a Sri Lankan demon mask, potted cacti, and hula girl statuettes — in just a few months Wham and his partners have transformed the minimalist space that formerly housed Seven Spoons into a casual lounge with a cool soundtrack and an even cooler vibe.
A good idea of what to expect from the food is found in the Spam and potato salad (B160). Yes, that Spam — spiced ham, the Hawaiian staple. It sounds funny, combining fresh greens, paper-thin carrots, and roasted potatoes with cubes of protein that could survive nuclear winter, all tossed in Caesar dressing, but it works on so many levels.
The menu isn’t limited to pork products, though. Skewered Ranong shrimp, criss-crossed under mango salsa verde (B160), represent the lighter side of the cuisine. The salsa pops with the presence of chilli; the shrimp, like toasted marshmallows, melt on the tongue. Of course, the brightest star is the Wagyu burger (B260). Served in a homemade brioche bun, standing tall and proud on a wooden tray, the burger not only looks impressive but tastes as good as any in Bangkok. It washes down best with a potent homebrewed beer from Udomsuk Brewery (B160), like the Red IPA or Belgian Strong Ale, two of the finer craft selections in Thailand.
A little of this, a little of that, like the hot dog, Mad Moa’s island food deserves hype.
211/8 Lan Luang Intersection, Chakrapaddhipong Rd
08 5155 2601 | Facebook.com/MadMoa