The name Maverick and the shop front office block setting might conjure an American diner, but both are misleading. This is a more sophisticated modern European menu than you might expect, and delivered at prices that should see a queue at the door.
Once through the entrance, the long room starts with booth seating opposite a chunky bar jutting from the right hand wall. Bar stools are filled with the after
work crowd relaxing over cocktails like the sour and satisfying Pendennis, with Peychaud’s bitters, apricot brandy, gin and lime juice.
Further in, the restaurant proper is wide enough for three banks of seating, leading at the end to an open kitchen with seats in a horseshoe where you can watch the chefs at work.
The decor is pleasing, with lots of natural elements in wooden tables and ceiling, leather banquets and fabric armchairs. The walls are covered with wine racks and bookshelves and there are fabric wall panels set in relief that add texture. The soulful electro soundtrack is helped in atmosphere by varied lighting from spots and lamps that throw pools of light amid warm shadow.
The beautifully presented food has cheaper meat cuts, salads and root vegetables to the fore, which keep not only the taste high but the prices low. We started on pan fried duck liver, pink radish, broccoli and pistachio (B450++), in which two pieces of rich liver were balanced by earthy radish done three ways, including an arty pink foam. Pistachio and broccoli purée and the sweet crunch of pistachios add textural variation. It’s an unusual combination of flavours that delivers very well.
To drink we chose a fairly sweet A Scherer Gewurztraminer, one of 25 wines by the glass including dessert, rosés and sparklers. They too are attractively priced, from B150++ to B330++ for Sauternes Mascaron Ginestet 2000. You can get a bottles from B1150, including good representations from France, Italy and Spain, plus a rake through the New World.
For mains, we had braised short ribs with parsnip, coco and chips (B850++), and 12 hour suckling lamb shoulder (B590++), served with smoked eggplant purée and a Moroccan sauce that had less definition and none of the fruit or spice you might expect. Both had very tasty meats, but hadn’t been cooked long enough, so were a tough workout for the jaws.
A cracking dessert choice is chocolate soup, pine nuts, crumble, marshmallow and chantilly (B210++). The warm chocolate soup is poured tableside over a chocolate sphere, which starts to melt revealing bits of marshmallow and crumble. Small bowls of ice cream and whipped cream are served on the side. The slightly salty crumble adds contrast to the sweet ice cream and marshmallow, while the soup is bitter-sweet. It’s delicious.
The main concern at Maverick seems to be a steady stream of chefs that have come and gone since its opening barely a year ago, but there’s lots of appeal here. Definitely one to watch.
Sukhumvit 21 Soi 3 | 0 2665 2772 | maverickbkk.com | Mon-Sat, 5pm-midnight