This newish bar and restaurant makes a great deal of its versatility, extending an invitation for breakfast, lunch, dinner and everything in between. It will be interesting to see how they refine their concept as they get a feel for their clientele but certainly the food and menu design is there for it to stand alone as an upscale restaurant with a bar area. That kind of venue works brilliantly in Bangkok when it hits the right notes – and there have been a few that haven’t managed that – but, once again, Maverick has the food to suggest that people will keep coming back. They’ve also got a serious wine list, perfect for pairings, which certainly doesn’t hurt.
Broadly speaking, it’s modern European, drawing heavily from French and Spanish traditions. That’s most in evidence in the gourmet tapas (B490-B690 for three). Try the tortilla de patatas, a Spanish omelette with egg and potato foam or the creamy Catalan foie gras served with yuzu and figs. There are molecular touches throughout – bells and whistles aren’t guaranteed to work but here they complement rather than compete with the body of the dish.
Once you move on to the a la carte menu, there’s a division between what’s ‘from the sea’ and ‘from the land’. The Bali barramundi (B450) is cooked to perfection, with a crispy skin but soft white flesh, served with an inky risotto negro and a puff of lemon zest, which adds crucial bite.
Even more indulgent is the foie gras ballotine (B620), served with a brioche spliced with pineapple and a plum chutney. It’s increasingly common to see foie gras served with a side of citrus these days but this combination retains a real richness and the brioche bursts with flavour.
If you fancy a rack of lamb (B750) – it’s a carré in French – Maverick serves it as a main with eggplant caviar, chickpea purée ratatouille and mustard leaf jus.
Desserts are also served tapas-style (B300 for three) – the white chocolate rectangle, with a cocoa liquor pearl, offers an addictive sugar rush, while the signature Valrhona chocolate cube is shot through with a hint of caramel.
Again, there’s already plenty to like about Maverick’s approach to eating and drinking, which is likely to develop further with a new head chef who has a particular fondness for Basque cuisine.
Sukhumvit 21 Soi 3 | 02-665-2772
maverickbkk.com | Mon-Fri 8am-3pm and 6pm-10.30pm, Sat 6pm-11pm