A Fresh Take on Classic Mexican
Fast in the current of a global trend, Bangkok chefs have begun enhancing old favourites with new techniques and aesthetics. Rustic dishes, from falafel to farfalle, have been given a facelift. Now, they’re made to cater to the increasing curiosity of the local palate. Indian, Chinese, Mediterranean – seemingly every major cuisine has been swept up in the movement, except for Mexican.
But now Méjico, a new player in the ever-changing scene, is bucking that trend.
Set in fashionable Groove at CentralWorld, Méjico is every bit as cool as the latest opening in, say, Hong Kong or Shanghai, with custom-made furnishings, granite platters, a long wooden table stretching across the dining room, tequila barrels visibly stashed in the ceiling, and a balcony for al fresco dining. But Méjico is different. Chef TK, who trained in the US, has the bravado to experiment with his menu. He tackles traditions long ignored here, giving local diners a style of cuisine that many haven’t ever tried.
Dishes like the beef short rib (B695), which is braised for six hours, left on the bone, and finished with a smoky chipotle barbeque sauce, shatter stereotypes of Mexican food. So does the grilled shrimp and smashed avocado (B215), which is fresh, light and engaging to eat, the shrimp redolent of smoke and the radish popping on the tongue.
Turning labels on their heads is the implicit goal of the restaurant. It starts with the approach. Served on stone trays, the dishes are made to share. The guacamole (B235) is mashed at the table, providing diners a fun, first-hand look at its preparation. As a starter, light-textured salmon ceviche (B195) is zesty with orange, cilantro and coconut. Other snack-sized hits include the jalapeño poppers (B235), which vary in heat from piece to piece and are rounded out with an herb-laden feta and cream cheese mixture. Even the tacos are sophisticated, with fillings such as buttery braised pork (B185) and fried soft shell crab (B235).
Currently, Méjico offers over 40 different labels of tequila blanco, reposado, and añejo but that number should reach 214 this year. By introducing good tequila to Thailand, CEO Stuart Cook hopes locals will gain a greater appreciation for the spirit, even if it comes in a cocktail, like the Chambordand pomegranate-laced Disco Margarita (B250).
Led by an exuberant staff, including a confident head chef, Méjico has opened in Bangkok with aplomb, proving that Mexican food has more to offer than quesadillas and frozen margaritas.
2nd flr, Groove @ CentralWorld | 0 2252 6660
mejico.asia | Open daily from 11am to midnight