Located in a sedate, leafy Sathorn sub-soi, Moko occupies a rare double-fronted building, decked out with the atmosphere and aesthetic of
a small boutique gallery. While plenty of cafes are forced to squeeze into a refurbished shophouse, Moko revels in its spaciousness, the sense of openness fostered by the light flooding in through the French windows that run along the venue’s facade.
As with many of the most interesting places that crop up in Sathorn – particularly when it comes to places that specialise in brunch or all-day dining – Moko is driven by a French management team and, accordingly, there are plenty of French touches when it comes to the menu design and the produce used.
First things first, though, proceedings begin with a wellexecuted Bloody Mary (B200), with just enough kick to clear out any Saturday morning cobwebs. The cocktail selection is limited but there are some intriguing concoctions – the Passion Martini with vodka, fresh passionfruit and mint is refreshing without veering too far toward sweet and syrupy.
For teetotallers, fruit juices start at B80 and range up to B150 for more boutique selections. Fruit smoothies start at B90 for the basics while more exotic signatures go for B120.
Try the mixture of mango, papaya, passionfruit and kiwi. In terms of the food, the signature breakfast (B350) comes with eggs, bacon, sausage, fried potatoes and a baguette. On a smaller scale, there’s the eggs Benedict (B280) with salmon and Hollandaise sauce.
Pivoting away from breakfast dishes toward the more lunch-focused parts of the menu, the Classica bruschetta (B250) comes piled high with jabugo ham, mozzarella, tomatoes and basil, while the Malibu salad (B300) combines shrimps, mixed salad, shitaki mushrooms and boiled eggs.
This emphasis on delivering big flavours in light dishes is continued in the zucchini and squid (B320), served with cherry tomatoes and balsamic sauce. Heavier fare includes a brief list of pastas, including the farfalle all’Arrabiata (B240), straightforward with tomato sauce, garlic, chilli and parsley and the right amount of kick. Overall, Moko’s low-key sophistication makes it a worthy addition to Bangkok’s cafe circuit.
Moko
71/2 Sathorn Soi 10 | 02-635-3673
facebook.com/MokoRestaurant | 8am-10.30pm, closed Tuesday
