A festive set menu for New Year’s Eve applying prime ingredients & great skill.
The outdoor view from Red Sky over Bangkok is particularly perfect for dinner in the twilight dusk. Upon arrival, I was presented with a wine list and drinks menu, although opted for a non-alcoholic “Green Horizon” (B260). The blend of tangy kiwi, Granny Smith apple and lime juice with kiwi slices tasted sweeter than it looked but was a refreshing relief given the evening temperature.
The special menu, titled “The New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner” (B15,555++ with a complimentary bottle of G.H. Mumm Grand Cordon Brut per couple) by Chef de Cuisine Christian Ham, began with an amuse bouche and a firm, plump oyster basted in buttery French watercress potage. A variety of bread was then served with a 2% salted Beurre D’Isigny and green olives. The restaurant bakes 20 types of bread daily from scratch. I wanted to binge, but showed restraint, preparing myself for what was to come.
The Russian Oscietra Caviar was a show-stealer, served in its tin alongside charming spoonfuls of finely shredded egg yolks and whites, diced brunoise shallots, chopped chives, crème fraîche, lemon wedges, thinly sliced crispy baguette croutons, and a smooth blini. Accompanied by a pure shot of crisp Absolute Vodka.
Up next was pan-seared foie gras with caramelised apples, a mulled wine reduction and crunchy gingerbread swirl; a delicate, dimensional sculpture of a creation, packed with texture. The foie gras with white sesame was well balanced, soft and brittle in the mouth; however, it was the sauce which truly stood out, made from star anise and marrying well with the gingery crisp and petit croutons.
Then, a chestnut broth with generous black winter truffles and Echiré salted butter offered a palpable character. The whole sweet chestnuts arrived in thick, creamy, savoury soup, with milky foam and briny liquid. The pungent, seasonal truffles from France and baby scoops of butter on a toasted baguette helped to exude bold French charm.
Another course followed: Brittany lobster medallion in an intense white port wine sauce. Accurately cooked and neatly separated, the flesh was easy to delve into, my favourite part being the succulent meat from the claws. The lightly seasoned asparagus with a mix of mild julienne carrots and turnips allowed the lobster to shine. Pink rosé Champagne sherbet infused with long black pepper coulis cleansed the palate for the upcoming juicy monkfish.
Two options for the mains include Kobe A3 Wagyu tenderloin with Perigueux black truffle and mashed potatoes; and moist monkfish with homardine sauce and vitelotte mash and chips. Reuniting with chestnuts, a William pear tatin tart and whisky ice cream was delicious, the two-way pear—poached and candied—was a perfect final touch to the meal.
55F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld
Tel: 02 100 6255