Bone-in beef is the order of the day at this Manhattan-style restaurant
Diners looking for the traditional steakhouse treatment would be hard-pressed to top the New York Steakhouse, located on the 2nd floor of the JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok. From the spotless white tablecloths to the low-slung beam ceilings, napkin holders made of circular bones, and wooden plateholders shaped like silver longhorns, this is a classic red meat restaurant.
The lush black pleather deep-backed chairs, soft jazz, and large windows looking onto the kitchen, signal it will be a leisurely evening. A portion of Beef Tartare (B675) whets the appetite, prepared tableside from Australian meat. The three ounces incorporates capers and Dijon mustard in a tangy, savoury mélange. The classic steakhouse treatment includes a lot of tableside service so the layout features wide alleys to allow trolleys access.
The eatery is hoping the return of US bone-in beef to Thailand—after a 14-year import ban—will lure more diners to its Nana neighbourhood. The restaurant that claims it has “the best steak in Bangkok” made sure it was the first in the city to serve US bone-in beef, and they chose the famed Black Angus cattle and USDA “Prime” cuts of meat, its top grade. US beef is typically grain-fed, which producers in that country believe lends brighter white fat, more marbling (the streaks of fat in the lean parts), and a buttery flavour.
New York Steakhouse serves three cuts of this certified Angus beef, including the Prime T-Bone (B2,800 for 22 oz). This succulent meat is so tender you could eat it without a knife, lightly salted and served with a green peppercorn sauce—one of six steak sauces available. The portion sizes here are suggested for two to share, including the prime rib bone-in (B5,400 for 26 oz).
If you’re splashing out for steak, why not treat yourself to the latest fungus from Alba? White truffles are rare this season and one can add five grams of the luxury treat shaved to any dish for B2,950. The same amount of black truffle is not quite so dear at B400, and either truffle option adds a note of umami to the steak. Executive Chef Kevin Thomson keeps the extremely pungent jewel fresh by immersing it in an air-tight container of risotto rice, and he likes to joke the storage method makes the risotto smell so good he can serve truffle risotto without actually putting any truffle in the dish.
To conclude, Key Lime Pie (B280), with strawberries and lemon curd, provides a rich, tart finish to a heavy meal. From the wine list the Domaine Zine Humbrecht Gewurztraminer (B530) from Alsace, France, has a strong floral fragrance and soft lychee notes, perfect to start the night. Meanwhile, the Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (B780) from Sonoma, California, is bold and tannic with hints of blackberry and a long finish—perfect for a good cut of steak.
By Robin Banks
New York Steakhouse
2F, JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok
4, Sukhumvit Soi 2
Open daily: 6pm-11pm