Packing them in for traditional Italian food and an excellent wine list in smart surroundings, Opus has for several years blazed a trail for the chic venues that now thrive on the sois of lower Sathorn.
The single room is loosely divided into two halves – at one end a cosy restaurant with large windows, chunky, dark wood tables and comfortable armchair seating, and at the other end more of a wine bar, dominated by a large bar, high tables and stools. Upstairs is a cigar lounge and terrace.
We opt for the dining area and start with an elegant dish of Italian artichoke filled with quail’s egg yolk topped with slices of Norcia black truffle and edible flowers (B590++). The artichoke is marinated in oil, vinegar and herbs for seven hours before being briefly oven cooked. It’s a light and creamy opener, the added egg spilling over the dish to create a lovely colour combination of yellow against purple flowers, green artichoke and black truffle. The light, sharp acidity of the artichoke works well with the velvet richness.
Burratina and Parma ham (B690++) come next, featuring high quality 24-month aged ham and burratina cheese imported fresh from the chef’s home region of Apulia. The ham is deep flavoured, the cheese elastic on the outside and creamy moist within. Accompaniments include delicious home-made semi-dried tomatoes and pearls of white balsamic that give little acidic pops in the mouth.
The wine comes from an enticing glass-fronted, walk-in cellar featuring over 400 labels, which makes it possibly the biggest Italian selection we’ve seen in Bangkok. The list has handy ratings from Robert Parker and Wine Spectator beside bottles (B1390-B21,000++) with as many regions and grapes as you can name. There are ten by the glass (B260-B620++) running from a light, acidic Mezzacorona chardonnay to beefy Amarone Corte Rugolin 2007 (B620++).
For mains try ravioli with foie gras. Filled with goose liver and ricotta, it is a silky decadent dish enlivened by foie gras and black truffle sauce with drizzles of strawberry coulis. The charcoal grilled Alaskan snowfish (B840++) is also good, served with asparagus, sliced potatoes and lemon reduction, and garnished with pink edible flowers. The moist fish is perfectly grilled with a crispish char to the surface.
Finish with creamy, not too cakey tiramisu (B190++) with crumbles of lady fingers for texture. It’s a satisfying end to a very good meal in warm, comfortable surroundings.
64 Pan Rd, Silom | 0 2637 9899 | wbopus.com