You might think that a group of Thai restaurants founded and conceived in San Francisco might be a bit cautious and shy about finally bringing its unique culinary brand of 17 years back to the motherland. But not Osha, whose aim is nothing less than to become the mother of all modern ways to Thai one on. Not the least bit bashful, Osha is a place that brashly goes big.
Big décor: circular sweeps of gold leaf, purple back lights, Moet and Chandon magnums in rows, sparkling chandeliers. Big dishes: like its signature “Volcanic Beef,” a cast-iron cauldron of a stew informed with fresh pepper buds, sake, basil, and a raw egg yolk (B950). Big flavours: nouvelle experimentation, like a poached oyster topped with kaffir lime foam that magically captures every gradation of Thai chilli between the bubbles, a green chilli sorbet, and a granita of foie gras granules tossed into a pumpkin sauce (B650). Big innovations: like the recent addition of a special Floral Set (B2200) utilizing edible flowers in every dish, with names like “Pure Botanic Sweet Kiss” and “Triple Senses of Deep Blue Marine” as personally cooked up by their playful new head chef, who is fresh off a competition in “Thai Iron Chef.”
Terming itself “molecular,” the menu here is still varied enough to rely on such enjoyable aids as the liberal use of Chinese-style salted egg coatings. And for those who don’t want to dip into uncharted territory, Osha isn’t above a high-end pad thai informed with crunchy pork rinds or mackerel with accompanying shrimp paste (B450). Osha’s over-the-top expansiveness even extends to a wide choices of rice, from brown to butterfly pea blue, organic and smoked, or just plain white jasmine.
Backed by prominent owner Dr Wutthisak and inspired by an enthusiastic creative team, Osha’s ample, two-story space on the corner of Wireless and Ruamrudee, with outdoor terrace included, is just the first splashy beach head in a planned culinary invasion. So naturally they’ve employed their full artillery of temptations, combining the best of romantic atmosphere and uncompromisingly Thai ingredients with a touch of American “bombs bursting in air.”
Eating at Osha is a special occasion and after-dinner show in itself, with plenty of smoke and liquid nitrogen—even the generous fruit plate that closes most meals is served caveman-style in a hollow stone from which wafts an icy steam that floods the entire table. Osha is a newcomer that overflows with ideas and potential.
99 Wireless Rd | 0 2256 6555 | oshabangkok.com
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