Prepare to have your senses dazzled
It is entirely fitting that Osha Bangkok—the modishly elegant salle à manger and diplo-quarter darling of Thai fine dining—derives its name from the word for “delicious” used in Thai royal courts of centuries past.
With an enviably tony location on Wireless Road—coupled with a stunning, deep-concept interior and a menu of modern-traditional culinary creations—this sparkling gem of an eatery offers up timeless Thai classics mingled with European culinary methods. Now in its fourth year of operations, Osha Bangkok is brand-cousins with the U.S.-based chain founded in 1997, and which operates nine branches in San Francisco (the inspiration for this somewhat more upmarket local version).
The toweringly high-topped main dining hall is a captivating, multi-faceted canvas of visual intrigue, with colossally scaled cultural artefacts, including gold-leaf gilding, dining nooks designed to resemble alms bowls, and a massive, custom-made chandelier in the form of a Chada—the familiar traditional Thai headdress. 3-D mapping projectors concealed in banquette housings display images of mythical scenes on the ceiling, creating an utterly unique and ever-changing ambience.
Fittingly, the Osha dining experience is also one of wondrous sights, as well as intriguing aromas, with much effort put into the house’s stunning presentations—featuring dramatic dry ice clouds and aromatic infusions. Our starter of Yam Som-O Pomelo Salad (B380) arrives in a coconut husk, floating upon billows of creamy-white fog. The firm-textured citrus wedges are superbly paired with sous vide flash-cooked white prawn and gac fruit (baby jackfruit), which are reconstituted as tart, curd-like droplets.
A refreshingly occidental take on this quintessential Thai soup, the Thom Ka Gai (B350) features medallions of chicken breast stuffed with chicken mousse and Kaffir lime foam. The coconut milk broth—slightly sweet and scented with coriander oil—is expertly decanted at the table, giving the diner a tantalizingly fragrant prelude to the flavours to come.
Of the mains, the Beef Cheek Panang (B650), offers this succulent cut bathed in a tangy Panang sauce, with Kaffir lime essence and coconut pearls bookending the dish’s broad flavour spectrum. Likewise, an ocean-fresh Seabass in Tamarind Sauce (B550) impresses with its tender and flaky texture, accompanied by Jerusalem artichoke, coriander purée, and crispy shallots, with a touch of bitter squash to temper the sweetness of the tamarind. The fish is served with Riceberry grains, cooked in coconut water and served in a baby coconut shell.
Coconut Crème Brûlée (B350) is a must for the afters course. Dry ice is again employed, this time laced with essence of vanilla bean, while the ultra, extra, über-smooth custard is garnished with a candied hazelnut impaled on a sugar-spear.
The second dessert was an absolutely cannot miss Mango Medley (B350). Served on flat stone slate, this multi-element treat features mango salsa with mulberry wine vinegar and basil, rolls of sliced mango stuffed with young coconut sorbet and delicate-lace honey tuiles. By Chris Michael
Osha Restaurant Bangkok
99 Wireless Rd.
Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm (Fri-Sat, till midnight)
Tel: 02 256 6555