Daring fare served with artistic flair
Charoen Krung Road, which slices through one of Bangkok’s most historic districts, is going through an urban revival of sorts. With art galleries, dive bars, and cafés popping up, this stretch is now becoming one of the hottest areas in the city. One of the places we discovered in a sub soi between Charoen Krung 43 and 45, is Outlaw Creative Cuisine. Lodged between rows of shophouses, this eatery stands out—with a brightly coloured mural on its façade, and warm interiors within. Once inside, Chef Romain Guiot welcomes you with a wave and an “ello”, in his thick French accent.
The narrow layout of the restaurant focuses on an open kitchen at the entrance, followed by a few tables (and a second floor which is yet to be developed). The teakwood-heavy furniture is complimented by an exposed brick wall and rich gold murals. Chef Romain’s fine art and electromechanical engineering background comes through in the form of quirky light fittings, made using traditional Thai kitchen utensils, and artistic photos snapped by him (available for sale).
Baladin Italian craft beers (B250) in hand, we sit down with the tattooed, gung-ho chef and run through the menu. The bases of his dishes are of course, French—given his culinary training at École Grégoire-Ferrandi in Paris—but his travels influence the overall taste and presentation of each dish. For instance, with the Burratina Cheese on Spicy Bruschetta (B390), topped with a balsamic glaze, we see a confluence of Spanish and Thai flavours. The artful plating with dried herbs and flowers makes this one a delicious work of art.
Next up is the Argentinian Tenderloin Tartare (B695). The raw meat dish is well seasoned with duck egg, shallots, mustard seeds, and herbs, and served alongside garden salad, pickles, and forest mushrooms flambéed in aged Sang Som rum. “As with tartare, I try not to transform the dish too much and let the high quality ingredients speak for itself,” Romain adds, while molding the meat on the plate.
For our main, Romain does his special Carbonara (B420). The spaghetti is tossed with mushrooms, crispy Thai kurobuta bits, and duck magret, then sprinkled with Swiss Emmenthal cheese. The dish is rich, yet non-greasy, and presents a heavenly juxtaposition of creamy and salty flavours. Of course, this was an all-round favourite. We paired this with a few glasses of smooth Reservado red (B150).
Romain is currently working on extending the menu, so some of the dishes we tried tonight represented both the old and the upcoming menu, which will see a few vegetarian dishes made using Thai produce, truffle-based items and a dessert list.
We made up for a lack of dessert with The Chinese Man (B220), a herb-y and sweet cocktail made using Ya Dong, a Thai moonshine, which Romain sourced from an 80 year-old moonshiner in Chinatown. “Its outlaw, creative and something different”, he laughs. “Very much the essence of what this place represents.”
By Reena Karim
Outlaw Creative Cuisine
415, Charoen Krung Soi 45
Tel: 090 021 2111
Open: Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Sat, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Sun 5pm-10:30pm