Australian chef Angela Brown took over the kitchens at Park Society early in the year and in the process bagged herself one of the best views in the city. The romantic tables along the full wall windows are well worth booking ahead for the arc of night lights spreading beyond Lumpini Park to Ratchaprasong. Not many venues make Bangkok look better than this, despite the bar of window frame placed at eye level.
The very French interior lives up to the scene, staged like a Parisian salon of angular, vaguely art deco curios, a reflecting silver metal wall and well waxed wooden floor. The waiters wear outfits by Christian Lacroix.
As well as the a la carte offerings, the menu has a monthly promotion (five courses at B2990) and a chef concept menu (B4800, including a glass of champagne), in which Angela stops by for a chat and creates something based on what you reveal. It’s the culinary equivalent of the psychiatrist’s couch. Pretend to be barking mad and see what she comes up with.
Our meal began on cured kingfish with ponzu (B650), done with a delicate cure so the fish remained moist and tender and not overly salty. With good matching elements in heirloom tomatoes, avocado purée, gazpacho foam and pickled shallot, it was a light, refreshing start to what developed into an excellent meal. An exceptional lobster tortellini (B650), also among the appetisers, came as two big chunks of sweet lobster meat in pasta, served in a bowl of lobster bisque with crab meat, mushrooms and the bitter balance of wilted greens. Restrained XO sauce added a hint of spice.
There are fifteen wines by the glass plus sparklers (B350-B620) and three flights of three wines each (B600-1000). Bottles – big on French, but with a decent choice of world regions – start at B1500 and reach B150,000 if you fancy the 96 Petrus.
The mains included roasted pork loin and crispy pork belly with pea puree, baby carrot, caramelised onion, red wine sauce and baby apple (B1800). The belly, confited in duck fat then pan fried to crisp the surface, was a menacingly rich highlight, and the three medallions of pork loin had wonderful flavour. They were slightly overcooked, but the dish was so tasty I really didn’t care. They also nailed Lamb Three Ways (B1900), the loin, chop and leg rillette of great quality and beautifully cooked with grilled veg, lamb jus and a delicate spider web of crispy potato on top.
For dessert, take a mixed berry soufflé, make a hole in the top and drop in the accompanying sorbet for a sweet dance of hot and cold.
In several of our previous visits there have been slight mis-steps with the food here. Emphatically not so this time. With every dish perfectly seasoned and beautifully presented, Park Society serves dinner to match the stunning view.
Sofitel So Bangkok, Fl29, 2 North Sathorn Rd | 02-624-0000 | sofitel.com
Opens Daily 6pm-10.30pm