Raising the steaks
Fine-dining in malls is something we find hard to get used to. But get used to it we must, as it seems the trend is here to stay, especially as our favourite locales for these sorts of restaurants – characterful old buildings – seem to be disappearing as the city continues to saunter recklessly down the path marked modernity.
Given our thoughts on the matter, then, it was with low expectations that we entered newcomer Peter’s Pan, only to find that it’s about as stylish a mall joint as you can find in this town. The owner, the titular Peter Pilara, got in local design firm Architect Kidd, and they’ve combined a modern finish and muted colour palette with his impressive antique collection. Pottery from Ban Chiang and Khmer stone relics grace the shelves, while a glass display case containing 1,000 year old Tang Dynasty figurines separates an intimate cushioned banquette area from the dining tables. And yet, despite all the museum-pieces, the space feels fresh and modern. A job well done, we reckon.
Given the Asian exotica, one might expect exotic Asian food from Peter’s Pan, but it actually specialises in upmarket western classics. From the appetizers and salads we opted for the foie gras with mango and red cabbage (B350) and a mixed green salad with preserved fruits and pomegranate (B190) – both excellent, the latter especially so, packing a good crunch and zing, thanks to its dressing.
Roast prime ribs and steaks are the specialty, but eager to try the seafood too, we went for the surf and turf (B1,500). The Maine Lobster was a big healthy specimen, its succulent flesh marrying well with a spicy nam jim butter. The nicely braised and juicy Black Angus fillet alongside it, meanwhile, sat atop a puddle of red wine sauce (worth noting: though this was US beef, other cuts are sourced from Japan and Australia, while the signature roast-prime ribs are Thai-French beef).
As well as other meat dishes – from pork chops to lamb shanks and short rib stews – there are also pastas. Our spaghetti in cream cheese sauce (B490) came with two juicy scallops and was boldly seasoned for Thai tongues, packing a peppery kick.
Currently still pretty quiet, Peter’s Pan is not quite the steakhouse of our dreams – it loses points for the mall location, plus the staff lacked confidence and warmth – but it’s stylish and the food is solid. We’ll definitely be back. Backing things up is a drinks list, cocktails coming in at B180 and Australian wine by the glass for B250.
2F Mille Malle, 66/4 Sukhumvit Soi 20 | 02-663-4560 | peters-pan.com