Sunset, steak, and wine by the river
The sizzling sound of meat grilling and the mingling smell of beef immediately make my mouthwater as I walk into Prime.
The meal begins with classic caesar (B550) assembled live. Seasonings, toppings, and emulsifiers are presented on a cart alongside a teak mixing bowl. The staff scrapes, creams and swirls egg yolk, mustard, olive oil, and more all over the receptacle surface until the liquid thickens – only teak wood can fully brace that. Eight cos lettuce leaves are thoroughly tossed and covered by the rich condiment, precisely stacked, and sprinkled with crispy bacon bits, slightly baked croutons, and parmesan.
The freshly baked daily whole wheat bread with carrot and focaccia and red bell pepper is accompanied by French butter churned in-house. The browned and crusty on the outside, delicate and moist on the inside bread is binge-worthy when partnered with two types of butter: herbed garlic and standard.
The rotatable seafood platter (B3,800) contains luscious vanilla clams and quite sappy Dutch mussels, the nice, briny fine de claire oysters and rather chewy gillardeau from France, the firm Canadian lobster, tantalising Alaskan king crab legs, and the undeniably tender tiger prawns; with a variety of relish plus four levels of Tabasco. Paired with 2017 Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough (B2,300/bottle), the slightly dry semi-sweet fruit salad in a glass lets the shellfish shine. The restaurant carries 180 labels on its wine list, categorised by type, and has a corkage fee of B1,000 per bottle.
I’m not one to season meat profusely, butits jus, three styles of mustard, and three kinds of Himalayan rock salt: pink, charcoal, and smoked garlic give different gustation to every bite. Especially when the distinctly rough salt flakes and crystals are rained down, the texture becomes concentrated and provides a crunchy addition. Chunky potato wedges,charred vegetables and whole garlic on the side, the grade 5-6 600g marbled Australian Wagyu Prime Ribs (B3,760) is precisely cooked to medium with gorgeous grill marks – not over caramelised – and the good juice locked insidepink core (dry aged 35-45 days). Given some time, the mild spice opening of 2016 Robert Mondavi Private Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (B680/glass) goes hand in hand with the steak.
To conclude, a decadent, not overbearingly sweet chocolate soufflé (B540) is poured and plunged with warm chocolate sauce, trickling down to the pistachio bits. It deserves a scoop of vanilla ice cream and marinated berries with light melon cream and port reduction (B450).
Millennium Hilton Bangkok
123 Charoen Nakhon Rd
Tel: 02 442 2000
Open daily: 6pm-10pm