Once upon a time, going to a steakhouse for dinner – even an upscale steakhouse – meant being confronted with an endless list of cuts of beef in different shapes and sizes and pedigrees. Although Prime still boasts an enviable selection of red meat, cooked on a woodfired grill that also allows them to infuse the meat with certain flavours, they’ve diversified impressively.
There’s a signature Caesar salad (B450) prepared theatrically at the table, although the Waldorf salad (B450) looks more interesting. But it’s the seafood that makes Prime’s ambitions clear. From the caramelised Hokkaido scallops (B890) with celery variations, couscous and apple vinaigrette, to the wood-burned Japanese octopus (B790) with arugula and chickpeas, there’s a refinement of technique and willingness to embrace challenging combinations. It’s a welcome sophistication, befitting the sweeping views over the Chao Praya. That said, the humble crab cakes (B790) are also exquisite, crisp on the outside but soft and creamy inside.
Of course, proceedings soon turn to the meatier fare but even here, there’s admirable variety. The tournedos rossini (B1750) are one of Prime’s signature dishes, a beef fillet served with foie gras and a madeira reduction.
There’s also a duck leg confit (B890) with sherry reduction and lemon potato cream, and an Australian lamb loin (B1350) with garlic and goat cheese cream. It’s all very rich but the produce is high-quality, making over-eating easier to justify.
Eventually, though, most diners at Prime will find themselves eyeing the grill, where the selection is heavily weighted toward beef, although you can also get a Kurobuta pork chop (B790) or a range of seafood, including Chilean snow fish (B1150) and Alaskan crab legs (B1990).
As for the steaks, prices range from B1750 to B4350, all served suitably flame-grilled. There’s the option to add bone marrow, organic eggs or blue cheese, as well as some more exotic sauces, like bordelaise or pommery mustard.
The presentation is straightforward, focusing on the cut of meat, suggesting that, although Prime is much more than a steakhouse, they are happy for this part of their repertoire remain unembellished.
Millennium Hilton Hotel, 123 Charoennakorn Rd
02-442-2020 | hilton.com | 6pm-11pm