Perched on the 26th floor of Rembrandt Hotel, Rang Mahal offers diners fine northern Indian cuisine based on recipes that delighted the taste buds of the Mughal rulers of old. The setting is equally regal, with soaring ceilings, panoramic city views and an elegance that is all too uncommon in many Indian restaurants.
Rang Mahal means ‘palace of colours’ and there is definitely a courtly air about the restaurant, down to the traditional Indian band whose lilting music fills the air. Equally, while Indian cuisine routinely delivers powerful flavours, the refined, almost delicate food served at Rang Mahal is a rarity. Among the appetisers, the papri chaat (B175) and Punjabi samosa (B190) are relatively straightforward but the well judged lightness and the fact the doughiness is not overdone mean these bite-sized dishes whet the appetite.
Proceedings go up a notch when the main course dishes come out. The jheenga kadhai, prawns in a tomato and onion sauce (B550), is rich and perfectly balanced with Indian spices, while the tandoori murgh (B425 for half, B730 for whole) combines chicken and yoghurt for an extra kick. The house specialty, though, is the raan-e-khyber (B950 for half, B1595 for whole) – a leg of lamb marinated in rum, herbs and spices before being barbecued over charcoal. It’s an impressive dish, rustic in appearance but perfectly executed, the meet sweet and smokey at the same time.
The desserts here are also worth waiting for. The gulab jamun (B195) is a cream cheese dumpling flavoured with cardamom, saffron and almonds – it sounds like an unusual combination but the blending of savoury and sweet is a winning formula. The kulfi falooda (B225) is saffron-flavoured ice cream – but even then it is a pleasant eye-opening experience.
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26F Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18 | 02-261-7100
rembrandtbkk.com | 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm