Welcome to the encore
After falling into mediocrity with the mid-oughties departure of its original designer and kitchen Meister, French restaurant Aldo’s Bistro has risen from the ashes and is again making waves with founding chef Hervé Frerard back in charge at the Ascott Sathorn’s 7th floor venue.
Chef Hervé is both the classic French bistro’s founder, and the agent of its rebirth—having been called back into service after a 9-year hiatus. Now back at the helm and just a few months into a complete makeover, he has created a refined and welcoming dining atmosphere and a menu to match.
With a collection of intriguing artworks by namesake painter, Argentine-born Aldo Luongo setting the room’s aesthetic tone, the ambience here is one of a rich uncle’s library that has been given a bit of a modern tweak—a theme which is echoed in the creator’s approach to kitchen-craft.
From the house’s revolving amuse-bouche selection (dinner only, complimentary), we drew a sea-dairy pairing of French-imported Yuzu double cream with hints of Chervil and the tart Japanese citrus fruit. Presented as a pedestal of rich dairy goodness, the cream’s load-bearing texture easily buttresses a hefty flake of smoked haddock and premium Oscietra caviar.
A dish one can easily fall in “l’œuf” with is the Organic egg with smoked cod espuma (B850), which is slow-cooked at precisely 63°C, and served with butternut squash purée, salmon roe and seasoned with Szechuan pepper, making this brunch-y, smoothly textured dish a dinnertime must.
Sourced from the clear, chilly waters off France’s Brittany coast, the Dover sole with shallot and fresh dill (B2,100) boasts a mild flavour and firm, flaky texture which is ideally suited for the butter-searing meunière-style preparation, and is served with a portion of exquisitely tender imported baby spinach. For this dish, sommelier Jaruwan Kaset paired a 2013 Hubert Brochard Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc—one of over 300 labels from the house’s extensive wine bar.
Those with a penchant for poultry will most certainly appreciate the Roast guinea fowl (B1,650), a timeless staple of French cuisine. Sourced from a generations-old supplier in Auvergne, it’s served as de-boned breast and thigh portion, with savoury, oven-crisped skin. The plating is invitingly busy with a velvet-smooth mash of French ratte potato with black truffle jus, and an eclectic mingle of diversely-sourced produce, including baby zucchini and beetroot from Vietnam, and fresh figs from a boutique grower in Chiang Rai.
A dessert of Hazelnut Soufflé (B350) dazzles the olfactory sense with a luxuriant bouquet of top-end Sicilian hazelnuts, served with a soul-mate accompaniment of Vanilla Tahiti ice cream, by premium house brand Below Eleven, in which Chef Hervé is a founding partner.
Meticulously sourced, high quality ingredients? Oui. Obsessively unique and supremely satisfying French cooking sans pretentiousness? Oui. A visit in order? Absolument!