Taking a bite out of Chef Tim Butler’s ever-evolving menu
Restaurants in Bangkok tend to come and go with the regularity of lunar cycles, but establishments such as Eat Me, which has been holding steady for almost two decades now, buck that trend with a vengeance. So what’s the secret? Start with a cool, modernist décor, add to it a top-notch wait staff who know what they’re doing and what they’re serving (a rarity in some restaurants), and top it off with an experienced chef who knows how to wow without resorting to “foam” anything—molecular gastronomy’s most unappealing legacy.
But innovation is important too. “We’re constantly refreshing the menu, the art, and the restaurant itself,” explains American-born Chef Tim Butler, who has been helming the kitchen here for the past seven years. “The orange furniture downstairs we just put in last week, and the art rotates quarterly. It’s supplied by H Gallery. We own the tables and chairs, and H owns the walls.
“Right now we’re doing a Smoked swordfish belly (B650),” continues Butler, as he lists some of the recently added menu items. “We’re also doing a Veal tongue (B500) which is new. The Duck confit (B690) is a menu classic, but with the new components and such it has changed.”
The chef’s assured culinary skill is evident when the aforementioned dishes arrive for tasting. The tongue, served with black garlic aioli, kimchi, and slivers of green apple, is butter soft but full of meaty flavour—and will win over anyone skeptical about trying tongue for the first time. The succulent swordfish belly, served with salsa fresca, nori and Serrano ham, is also tender beyond words, while the delicious duck confit, paired with tabasco mayo and bacon jam, is beautifully moist inside and perfectly crispy outside. However, the breaded and deep-fried duck egg that completes this dish might be overkill for anyone watching their waistline.
From the salad menu the White asparagus and caviar (B770), accented with a slice of Manchego cheese and a strip of jamon ham, is decadent and refreshing at the same time. We also sampled the glorious Tamarind glazed quail (B750), accompanied by a heavenly foie gras and peanut brittle pate, but the Carabinero prawn risotto (B1,500) surprisingly stole the show. The pair of enormous prawns sitting atop the rice were tantalizing enough, but the fragrant saffron and chorizo risotto below stopped us mid-mouthful, and sent our eyes rolling back in a moment of foodie nirvana.
Ignoring the dessert menu here would be criminal, so save room for the divine Sticky date pudding (B320), slathered in butterscotch sauce and complemented by a dollop of vanilla ice cream. Similarly, the inventive drink list shouldn’t be overlooked, whether you choose a somewhat classic White Sangria (B290), or a potent but playful Fig and Ginger Martini (B290).
1/6, Soi Phiphat 2
Tel: 02 238 0931
Open daily: 3pm-1am