Fusion from nowhere is now here
Combining elements of different cuisines into a single dish is not an easy task. Not only is it difficult to find flavour palettes that complement and enhance each other, but mastering the right balance can be equally as challenging. One restaurant that has managed to perfect the marriage of different cuisines is Nowhere BKK, a newly opened venue on top of the THA City Loft Hotel (only a short walk from Ekkamai BTS station).
It’s the latest venture of Virunpath ‘Prae’ Kasemsri Na Ayudhaya, a 30-year-old restaurateur and co-owner of the casual Thai eatery Kram Café & Thai Kitchen on Sukhumvit Soi 39. Inspired by the positive feedback of her customers, Prae came up with her “Eurasian” concept of infusing European dishes with Asian (and other international) flavours and ingredients. One such example, the Moo-Ping Pate (B260), is a delicious, and smoothly blended version of Thai grilled pork, served with toasted English muffins and pickled vegetables.
The restaurant’s slogan, “You ain’t going nowhere, but you are now here”, plays on the different separation of syllables of its name. This dual perspective is equally reflected in the interior of the eatery, where several staircases criss-cross the room and, though leading nowhere, they are utilised as tables, shelves, and part of the bar.
The minimalistic, raw-style interior is the work of the Stu/d/o Team, the architecture firm behind the Naiipa Art Complex in Phra Khanong. The design includes a dozen wooden tables circling the large bar and an outdoor terrace with a 180-degree view, as well as several green highlights, including an entire wall covered with plants (testament to the design team’s focus on sustainability).
Just as thoughtful as the interior is the presentation of the Heirloom baby carrot salad (B310), in which the roasted vegetables are artfully plated with grilled orange slices, bread crisps, and dollops of garlic mayonnaise. Sprinkled with almonds and thyme, the dish is seasoned with a lemon paprika sauce—bearing subtle hints of Tom Yum flavour.
Meanwhile, the Watermelon salad (B210) is a dish for more acquired taste buds. Here, the sweetness of the red fruit is balanced with a sumac vinaigrette, spinach, and basil, and topped with parmesan shaves as well as bonito flakes (wafer-thin, dried fish). This daring starter was followed by a much more comforting plate of Shrimp and chorizo linguine (B265). And while I love that combination on the plate, it was the accompanying signature cocktail—Julep from Nowhere (B320)—that received most of the attention. This fresh, and fruity concoction, featuring chorizo-infused bourbon, was specifically created to be paired with the spicy pasta.
A highly recommended option for non-alcoholic drinks is the 1001 Arabian Night (B135) mocktail. The iced Moroccan mint tea is topped with a scoop of sweet pear and ginger sorbet, which, by slowly melting, gradually adds sweetness to the drink.
6F, THA City Loft Hotel, Ekkamai Soi 6
Tel: 094 516 6663 | Open: Tue-Thu, Sun, 5pm-11pm, Fri-Sat, 5pm-midnight